Being grateful for what we have is a wise way to live. With the advent of this new year, I feel an urge to share a gallery of original photographs that reflect that gratitude. It is a privilege to share habitat with the rich variety of living creatures that so grace this landscape. All of the following images, with only one exception, were taken within the watershed of the San Pedro River. All of the animals were wild and free when photographed. Meet a few of the 90 species of mammals that live here…
I will follow this post with a series of additional blog posts focused on birds, ophidians, and more in celebration of this new year of 2024.
For the past three years in a row, I had made a date with the San Pedro River: I would spend my birthday walking the river under the gilded magnificence of tall willows and stately cottonwoods alight with prime autumn color. For the past three years, the autumn colors have failed to shine. “Autumn,” if you can call it that, comes late to this river’s riparian forest. Fall colors do not peak here until the second week of December. The timing does not vary due to temperature or climate, it functions via the most universal and reliable of nature’s temperate region chronometers: the photoperiod. In most years, the trees along the river either suffer a hard freeze before the second week of December, or they get stripped off by strong winds, or both. Freezes can rob the forest of its fall color overnight by turning all of the leaves a withered brown.
When conditions are just right, chlorophyll fades from the leaves to reveal anthocyanic compounds that transform the forest canopy into a fluttering galaxy of bright yellow leaves. This year brought a reprieve from late November winds and early December freezes – this was one of those special years…so I set out for a walk on my birthday, a serene journey into the river forest. The following images help to tell the story of a rare day on the river.
The first place I walked to that morning was a hilltop where I saw the lone cottonwoods pictured above, lifting plumes of sunlit gold skyward. As I watched, a great egret came sailing out from behind the trees! Imagine an elegant pair of outstretched wings spanning over four feet, the bird flawless, brilliant snow-white, set against a clear blue sky. My wonderful new binoculars brought this seldom seen creature in close and sharp – what a gift it was to witness the egret! My jaw went slack when a second egret appeared to join the first. The pair then departed northward, winging over the tops of the trees as they followed the river that sheltered and fed them. I envied their freedoms.
I left the hilltop, then returned to the riparian forest, where I walked down to a favorite sitting spot by a bend in the stream just below a vertical cutbank. There, a set of cougar tracks was pressed into the moist sand, made the night prior by an adult male. I sat under a willow to look, to watch, and to take in the morning’s biophony. The forest was quiet, the still air punctuated by a slight rustling of leaves above, the quiet murmur of the river water, and the voices of a few birds. As sunlight warmed the cool air, small clouds of midges began to rise within discreet, sunlit areas above the water. There, the air temperature was most favorable for their airborne gatherings. As the midges danced in the light, a gray flycatcher began sallying back and forth into the insect clouds, garnering breakfast with typically adroit flycatcher movements. Then another bird joined in the feast, flying into the swirling insects to garb morsel after morsel with some amazing acrobatics. It turned out to be a ruby-crowned kinglet! I had no that clue kinglets could – or would – engage in such feeding behavior.
Next, I walked down the river until I got near the northern terminus of my trail. The going was easy, the stream shallow in most reaches. I was glad to find no recent signs of trespass cattle anywhere, nor any signs of feral pigs. There was little in the way of animal tracks, as a heavy mantle of recently shed leaves covered most of the ground thoroughly.
As I neared the end of my walk, I veered into the forest to avoid some deep water. (For much of the way, I’d been wading.) The wind suddenly arrived, causing a blizzard of shimmering golden leaves to return to the ground that had bore them, an entrancing display of fluttering motion and light as one of nature’s grand cyclic acts of life unfolded all around me.
The snake pictured above is a black-tailed rattlesnake, Crotalus molossus. Of the nine species of rattlesnakes inhabiting Cochise County in southeastern Arizona, this one is my favorite. (If you don’t see the image, it is because you are reading this in your email. Click on the blog’s title to be redirected to my blog website for a better, more inclusive experience. Once there, simply scroll down the title page to quickly find this most recent post.)
If snakes could talk, when asked the question “what is hell?,” they would likely answer “any place where people are.” Many people kill snakes on sight, and others run them over with vehicles – often a brutal, intentional action. If snakes have dreams, surely one of their worst nightmares would involve becoming entangled in certain types of fencing, like chicken wire or plastic mesh. A snake can slip its head through the openings in these kinds of fencing easily. The trouble comes as the reptile moves forward. As the body thickens behind the neck, there comes a point when the snake becomes trapped. Scales on snakes overlap and point backward. The wire or plastic mesh gets caught under the scales, making it impossible for the snake to back out. A long, slow death is the inevitable outcome. I have seen live and dead snakes trapped in fencing more than a few times, especially in chicken wire and in various types of plastic mesh and bird netting. The bottom line is simple: if you care about snakes, don’t use these types of fencing! Find another way.
I am happy to report that the Middle San Pedro Valley has finally received some summer rain! This has been a very dry summer – during July and August, we have received only .63 inches of rain. Most of that has occurred during the past four days. The summer “monsoon” season is what literally defines this ecosystem – enabling much of the rich assemblage of plant and animal species that makes this part of Arizona such a remarkable place.
Despite the extended drought, the velvet mesquite trees in the local bosque have put on a tremendous spurt of foliar growth this year. Additionally, the trees have flowered three times since spring. As I write this, the ground under the trees is plastered with a heavy crop of “beans,” the nutrition-packed seed pods that are one of the cornerstone food sources for our wildlife. How can this happen during such a bone-dry, hot spring and summer? The answer is rooted in last year’s very wet monsoon season. Mesquites have a remarkable ability to move rainwater down their roots, where they store it at depth for later use. That’s right; these trees can move water in both directions in their root systems! The big bean crop owes its genesis to last year’s stored rain water.
This has been one of the driest and hottest summers I can recall here in the Middle San Pedro River Valley. During “normal” summers, monsoon rains arrive between the middle and the end of June and continue through August and much of September. The two previous monsoon seasons brought us a welcome abundance of rain, but this year has remained very, very dry. Daytime highs for the past six weeks have averaged around 106°F., with more than a few days reaching 110° or higher. This year’s highest temperature registered at a crispy 115°F. on July 17.
For the past twenty years or so, I have participated in a coordinated volunteer project aimed at monitoring the presence of water along the length of the San Pedro River in southeastern Arizona. Organized by The Nature Conservancy, this project provides important data to scientists, land managers, and many others on the health of the river system during the hottest and driest month of the year. The data is collected the old-fashioned way – gathered by teams who experience the river in the best and most intimate manner possible, by walking and wading. Every June, I collect a portion of this data along a rare, perennially-flowing reach of the San Pedro located in the river’s middle valley, often accompanied by friends and neighbors. This year, two wonderful friends who also happen to be great neighbors assisted me in this worthwhile and delightful task.
Since June always brings oven-like temperatures, we began walking around 5:30am along a waterless stretch of the riverbed. Almost immediately, we discovered fresh tracks of an adult black bear and a cougar, etched in dry sand. One and a half miles in, the magic of water appeared. From that point on, the river flowed steadily. Because the brush is often nearly impenetrable along portions of the riverbanks, we waded, a much easier way to travel as long as one can avoid hidden lenses of quicksand. More mammal signs and tracks appeared; Coue’s whitetail deer, mule deer, javelina, coyote, bobcat, raccoon, coati, skunks, cottontail rabbits, mice and rock squirrels. Familiar bird songs spilled from the forest; summer tanagers and kingbirds, ash-throated flycatchers and song sparrows, southwestern willow flycatchers and black phoebes, grey hawks, tyrannulets, northern cardinals, Lucy’s and yellow warblers, and more.
Wading this desert river in the heat of June is magical. The cottonwood-willow forest stands tall and green, casting shade and coolness enabled by millions of fluttering leaves. The forest’s understory is verdant with lush growth. Eight-foot tall burr reed (genus Scirpus) plants crowd the riverbanks. Aquatic patches of speedwell (genus Veronica) glitter with multitudes of blue-purple blossoms. Tall willows form a vivid green arch overhanging the river. Birds sing from the depths of the forest, many butterflies, bees, and wasps drink from water’s edge, and scores of lowland leopard frogs leap at one’s every step. Below the surface, schools of long-finned dace are darting like shafts of animated light through the clear water. The continued presence of native frogs and fish are strong, positive indicators of the health of this aquatic ecosystem.
We waded for a couple of miles, feeling the warm, shallow waters of the river filling our shoes, until the waterway started to broaden and slowly deepen. I suspected a beaver dam was ahead. We climbed up on shore, then began to weave our way through a dense tangle of tamarisk and seep willow. Before long, we could see the beaver pond clearly, the water deeper and deeper, then the dam, plugging the river with a meter-tall, thirty-foot span of branches, twigs, tree limbs, rocks, and mud. I was elated to see that this reach of the river had beaver activity once again. The ecological and hydrologic benefits of beavers to this river – and many other waterways – are legion. I devoted an essay to this important topic in my book, The Life of the San Pedro River.
My companions and I slithered down the steep riverbank to begin wading the final stretch below the dam. We had taken just a few steps when one of my friends suddenly threw his arm around me and pulled me out of harm’s way. A 3-foot western diamondback rattlesnake, coiled too close for comfort along the edge of the river channel, erupted in a frenzy of rattling. The forward third of the reptile’s body was off the ground and formed into an s-curve as the snake’s glistening black tongue waved slowly, curled backwards over its snout. Fully cocked, primed, and quite willing to strike. My fresh shoe print was about 14 inches from the rattlesnake. Had I not been yanked so suddenly by my alert friend, this snake would have probably tagged me. I have never come so close, despite encountering hundreds of diamondbacks here over the course of the last two decades. This experience underscores a crucial rule that I try to teach to everyone that I take into the wilds here – you should watch where every footstep is headed during the warmer months in southern Arizona! Sometimes, that is easier said than done.
May is such a beautiful month in the Middle San Pedro Valley! Our mesquite bosque bursts into new life, sprouting a light-filtering canopy of spring-green leaves. Birds are singing from the trees, building nests, and rearing their young. Lizards are a near-constant sight and snakes have been leaving their telltale trackways in the dust. Late in the month, something special happens as catclaw acacias suddenly explode with constellations of pale yellow blossoms, perfuming the valley with their luscious, signature scent. The heat of summer begins to blanket the land in newfound warmth, gearing up toward the frying-pan month of June.
I am happy to report that our resident Chihuahuan ravens have successfully fledged a trio of youngsters this year. This comes in welcome contrast to last year’s double brood failure; their initial brood was decimated by hungry coyotes on the first night that they spent out of the nest, and the second brood (rare in ravens) was lost to raptors.
Loud cries emanating from the raven nest less than 120 feet from my desk window have been a daily part of this month’s panoply of happenings in the natural world. Young ravens have zero shyness when it comes to screaming at their parents for more food, more food, more food! Five days ago, they left the nest to begin exploring the outside world. We see and hear them many times a day as they roam with their parents and learn the complex magic of raven flight mastery. Few North American birds attain a higher level of flight skills than ravens do.
Only male “blues” congregate at puddles or on moist soil and animal scats. The males may require certain minerals, amino acids, and/or salts that the females do not. Local native host plants (for their larvae) include saltbush, catclaw acacia and velvet mesquite. Each species has its own hibernation strategy, with some overwintering as either eggs or larvae, as opposed to the far more common lepidopteran chrysalis. Other species have close associations with ant colonies – such as larvae pupating inside ant colonies, or larvae being tended and protected by ants as they feed on their host plants.
Last week, two friends and I embarked on a short hike up a roadless drainage in an effort to scout the area for a group hike that I will be leading in a few days. We were also hoping to explore an amazing slot canyon that one of my friends had discovered more than a quarter century ago.
I refuse to publicly divulge the location of the canyon for several reasons. First, there is the matter of deep respect for the many living things that call the canyon and the surrounding area home – a rich community of undisturbed native plants, insects, snakes, birds, mammals, etc. Secondly, when wild places are publicized, more and more people inevitably go there. Trails get carved into fragile desert soil. Litter appears…candy wrappers, used toilet paper, beer cans, broken bottles and spent shell casings from those who carry weapons. Initials get carved into once pristine stone walls and the garish rudeness of graffiti mars the sanctity of the place. Sensitive wildlife species leave or disappear altogether. All I will disclose is that this area is somewhere within the 4,720 square-mile San Pedro River Drainage in southeastern Arizona.
Our walk led up a wash (desert speak for a streambed that remains dry during most of the year) under cloud-flecked skies on a warm spring morning. Less than a mile in, we came across the signature tracks of what has become the region’s apex predator (next to humans). Just two centuries ago, that role would have taken a back seat to the indigenous people, jaguars, wolves, and grizzlies that thrived here prior to the arrival of large numbers of Euro-Americans.
March is a month that spurs changes in southern Arizona’s avian world. As we walked, turkey vultures soared overhead, recent arrivals from their wintering grounds. Mockingbirds and cactus wrens were singing with newfound spring zeal. Two other recently arrived migratory species made themselves known- one by voice, a gray hawk – and another by sight, a large, lone, black-colored bird flying over a distant ridgetop. Its silhouette formed a distinctive, familiar shape. The combination of broad wings and a wide, short tail nearly touching the trailing edges of the wing feathers strongly suggested a common black hawk. As the raptor curved its flight path, banking its body, the tail suddenly flashed a broad white band, cinching the identification. The hawk had just appeared here from migration; had we been in the same area only days sooner, it was likely that we would never had seen it.
Not long after the black hawk, we changed direction, exiting the wash to ascend a gentle slope leading toward my friend’s slot canyon. Two of us followed as he led the way to the base of some sandstone cliffs…
The Middle San Pedro Valley sprawls across nearly one million acres of undeveloped, unfragmented land in southeastern Arizona. Its slopes and woodlands, bajadas and ridges have been rimed with frost every dawn under the abbreviated touch of winter’s Sun. Days are short. The land stands hushed and still with its seasonal absence of many birds, reptiles, and other forms of life. Nonetheless, there are many good reasons to get outside and walk the land. January and February have brought a few surprises, particularly in the way of unexpected sightings of locally uncommon birds.
In late January, five purple finches began frequenting our bird feeders, thinking they were well concealed within mobs of house finches and lesser goldfinches. My wife’s sharp eyes picked them out of the crowd. In 20+ years of avian record keeping in this valley, that was the first time we had ever seen purple finches. Another species that has been sighted sparingly here during the winter months is the American robin. For reasons that remain a mystery to me, we have been inundated with robins this winter. They bring me many fond memories of their near-constant presence during past summers when I lived in the northern states.
Speaking of thrushes, another bird that I had never seen in the valley before has arrived to grace the nearby riverbottom woodlands this winter – a Townsend’s solitaire. A friend and neighbor, Tom Talbott, first sighted one about a week ago in the forests along the river not far from our home. Tom is a highly skilled birder and a masterful wildlife photographer. A few days later, walking the same reaches of the river, a friend and I also saw a solitaire. News has been spreading of numerous sightings of this species in areas just a few dozen miles to the north.
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First, a note of sincere, heartfelt thanks to everyone who so generously contributed to my appeal for a new pair of binoculars! The appeal was a great success – I am elated to say that the new binoculars are in my hands, and they are absolutely stunning. I cannot adequately express my gratitude for the gift of such an exceptionally important tool that will enable me to continue doing what I do as a naturalist. I’m beaming as I write this. 🙂
White-nosed coatis are one of the most charismatic and fascinating native mammals of SE Arizona. Bands of them are fairly common in the Middle San Pedro Valley where my family and I reside, but I have rarely documented their presence on our property. Only days ago, my wife saw a lone individual close by our home. Two days later, a band of coatis crossed our little acreage unseen, but they left abundant and unmistakable signs of their presence.
Some two decades ago, when I first began to roam the wildlands of this valley, I was not sure how to separate the tracks of coatis from those made by one of their cousins, the raccoon. I had heard that they were difficult to distinguish, but that soon proved to be incorrect. This exemplified one of many things that a naturalist must learn by direct experience out in the field, for the great majority of tracking books fall far short of being accurate, reliable sources of information.
So, how does one recognize the differences between the tracks of these two animals – tracks that, ostensibly, can look a lot alike?
Another pair of native mammals that can leave similar signs of their presence are mule and whitetail deer. One of several ways to distinguish their signs comes into play when these animals are moving at high speeds. Whitetail deer gallop when they run fast, but mule deer tend to stott when they are in a hurry. Stotting refers to an upward leaping motion where all four feet leave the ground at the same time and land at roughly the same time – a type of movement that most people would describe as a hop. And what a hop it can be!