Month: August 2022

Lightning Strikes 53 Feet From Me, a Deluge of Rain, Fireflies, Floods, and Images from a Wonderful Monsoon Season

The lightning bolt slammed into the ground with thousands of times the force and speed of a sledgehammer blow on an anvil. It struck so close to me that I heard no thunder, only the unmistakably loud, monstrously powerful  “snap” that is characteristic of a bolt that hits far too near to its observer. I had been sitting on my bed reading when it happened; I knew instantly what had occurred, for this was not the first time that lightning had struck so close to me that no thunder could be heard. Many years as a guide in the wilderness mountains of Montana had brought me into near-contact with lightning along high ridges at timber line more than a few times. It is one of nature’s most lethal forces when it strikes living creatures, but the other side of lightning is that it is one of the world’s most quintessentially important life-giving phenomena. For the full story, see pages 204-205 in my book, The Life of the San Pedro River. The next morning, I found the place where the bolt had impacted. A tape measure revealed that the lightning had struck 53 feet away. The electromagnetic pulse from that bolt fried our telephone system and our computer router.

The storms of this year’s monsoon season in southern Arizona have been wonderful – thus far, our rain gauge has registered 9.56 inches of rain since mid-June, resulting in a grand resurgence of life all across this hot and formerly dry landscape.

On the morning of August 20, a serious storm pounded the ground with so much rain that the area around our buildings became an unbroken sheet of water. I could hear toads starting to call  from our overflowing bird pond. Before long, dozens of spadefoot toads came out of their underground lairs to join in the party, all of them hopping and swimming through the flooded landscape in beelines toward the pond. This was a critical time for the amphibians, for in a normal year, they get only one or two brief chances to breed. It was also a rare sight, for I have never seen such activity in the daytime…but this was a doozy of a storm.

Mavis – the female half of the raven pair that we share habitat with – takes shelter from the storm under the roof of our shed.

As the rain subsided, I stepped outside. I heard the familiar roar of one of our local washes that had become engorged with flood water. A short walk of a quarter mile took me to a place where I could look down from the edge of a vertical cutbank at the flowing wash…

The view from the cutbank after 2.6 inches of rain from a single storm swelled Hot Springs Wash with roiling floodwaters. Only a single channel is visible in this image. The waters braided across the broad wash floor in an ever-changing – and growing – number of channels. Powerful floods are characteristic of desert washes with large drainage areas (this wash drains an area of about 100 square miles) and steep slopes in their headwater areas.

Next, I walked over to see what was going on in the little pond – there were eight pairs of Couch’s spadefoot toads in amplexus! A couple days later, after thousands of toad eggs hatched, our pond was teeming with wriggling throngs of tiny tadpoles.

Couch’s spadefoot toads mating in our pond. Each female usually lays hundreds of tiny eggs during such couplings, as the male releases sperm into the water.

After the mating frenzy, myriad spadefoot eggs clung to every blade of grass afloat in the water.

Later in the day, Kathleen and I walked down the road to have a look at where the big wash crosses the road. The sound of the flood grew loud as we approached a point where we could see the flow, over 300 feet in width. The dirt road – the only road that serves the entire valley – had become impassable once again. In the midst of the turbulent flow, where the waters ran deepest, trees were being tossed around like toys, ripped from their root-bound moorings as they sped downslope toward the San Pedro River. Hundreds of tons of sediment, gravel, and rocks were being transported toward the floor of the valley in a rip-roaring tumult of rain water.

A view of the flood as it obliterated the roadway where it crosses the usually dry bed of Hot Springs Wash. During the twenty summers that I have seen this wash respond to rainfall events, only twice have I witnessed it running larger than this.

As we were watching the floodwaters, I climbed to a higher vantage point, where I discovered this beautiful Sonoran gopher snake. The snake allowed me to gently approach within a foot or so. This was a fine specimen, over 5 1/2 feet in length.

A few hours later, the sun had melted down into the nether regions of the western horizon. My wife and I walked outside around 11:00pm to listen to the night sounds. After turning off our flashlights, we witnessed something that is seldom seen here – fireflies!! Few of Earth’s creatures are capable of instilling such an immediate and compelling sense of awe and wonder as fireflies are. They were emitting distinctive, paired flashes of remarkably bright green light – in so doing, they identified themselves down to the species level. We were seeing southwestern synchronous fireflies, Photinus knulli.

A couple of days after the big storm, I walked down to the San Pedro River. Many areas within the river’s drainage had received substantial rains, bringing the river to life. Here, el Río is surging along with a flow roughly 180 feet in breadth and over six feet in depth.

Downstream, a group of turkey vultures was roosting in a pair of dead cottonwood trees. Dead trees are an essential and important component of all forested areas on Earth. All too often, humans fail to recognize this aspect of our planet’s ecology. Our culture – embedded in the ecologically dangerous Abrahamic concept of land use – (the land is here to produce our milk and honey, for human use) – tends to see dead trees as “going to waste.” “Salvage logging” of our national forests after wildfires is an exemplification this anthropocentric view of our living world.

The rainy season brings twilight flights of thousands of buprestid beetles just above the canopy of our local mesquite bosques. Here, a very rare sight unfolds as a female Polycesta aruentis everts her ovipositor to lay her delicate eggs deep within the sheltering crack of a mesquite stump, where they will be out of reach of the sun’s touch. Her larvae will hatch to bore their way through the wood, leaving tunnels in their wake that greatly facilitate the entry of fungi and other agents of decomposition. Thus, insects like this play a critically important role in forest ecology.

A half-grown (about four inches in length) Sonoran desert toad enjoys our bird pond after a rain. These amphibians grow to prodigious sizes. If I am not mistaken, they are the heaviest toads native to North America.

Living in remote parts of the desert southwest demands some important learned behaviors. Only fools step outside without looking first. This diamondback had just finished crawling across my entry steps when I took this photo. Snakes of all kinds are always welcome on our property – but continuous caution when one ventures outdoors is an imperative part of living here.

A Lizard with a Voice and More Monsoon Discoveries

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A few evenings ago, an uncommon view from my desk window engendered delight and a deep feeling of gratitude. The scene encompassed a wild mesquite bosque, standing tall and green in summer’s refulgence…a gentle, drizzling rain was floating its way to the ground, suffusing the air among the stout trees with the magic of a fine mist, colored soft in fading light. The land was coming alive, replete with the promise of sprouting plants, emerging fungi, and the rising scent of moist duff. A water-borne resurgence of desert life was in the making.

During the past few weeks, more rain has fallen, resulting in a cavalcade of change, a water-borne eruption of desert life. Flowers are blooming and creatures are stirring, many of which cannot be seen at other times of year. Giant millipedes are crossing roadways and threading their way through the woodlands, tarantulas are out of their burrows roaming the landscape, harvester ants are forming great clouds of alates bent on their one-day-per-year mating spree. Sonorous calls of amphibian passion are ringing through the night after every substantial rain. “Monsoon” as locals know it, is the one season that defines these lands and the ecology of southeastern Arizona more than any other. Arizona without its monsoon would be akin to Alaska without a winter. 

One of many creatures that are revealed during this season is a small, nocturnal lizard with semi-translucent skin like gauzy velvet, big eyes with vertical pupils and movable eyelids, and the very rare ability (among lizards) to vocalize. Once encountered, the western banded gecko is not soon forgotten. More than once, I have heard the word “cute” applied to this beguiling little creature that rarely grows to more than four or five inches in length and remains hidden during daylight hours. 

I discovered this little gem sheltering under an old piece of plywood. This banded gecko had lost its tail sometime in the past – the new one grew back lavender in color. A plump tail like this one indicates a good state of health, for the tail stores fats and water for the animal to draw upon during lean times, much like the tails of Gila monsters.

When predators chase after lizards, the first part of the lizard’s body that they make contact with is often the tail. In evolutionary response to this, many lizards have developed special abscission layers in their tails. Once contacted, the tail breaks off, leaving predators detracted by a wiggling morsel while the main course absconds to safety. Banded geckos have tails that break off with a very, very light touch; hence, I recommend against handling them.

When threatened or disturbed, banded geckos often curl their tails over their backs. Such posturing mimics the scorpions that they share habitat with, potentially scaring off some would-be predators. Banded  geckos can also utter an audible squeak when frightened, making them one of the few lizards in the world capable of vocalizing.

During late July, the mass of tadpoles in our bird pond (see the previous blog post) transformed into toadlets in a matter of only ten days. The tiny young amphibians are now hopping their way into the surrounding woodland, disbursing at night when temperatures are cool.

This minuscule toadlet was photographed during its first day out of its natal pond, where it had spent the initial ten days of its life as a wriggling tadpole. At this stage of their lives, Couch’s spadefoot toads (Scaphiopus couchii), are tiny and vulnerable, fitting easily atop a mere dime.

On a warm early morning in mid-July, I took a walk and discovered an abundance of white-lined sphinx moths (Hyles lineata) almost everywhere I went. Most sphinx moths do their flying at night, but these moths were out in direct sunlight. They were specifically targeting wolfberry (Lycium spp.) bushes. The wolfberry was in flower, and the moths were hungry for nectar. With unerring accuracy augmented by  rapid, graceful flight, they were moving from flower to flower, hovering at each one to insert their long tongues for sips of nectar.

A white-lined sphinx moth hovers over a wolfberry bush, deftly inserting its long tongue into the tiny white flowers to feed on nectar. Note the bend in the moth’s tongue, a common trait among many species of sphinx and hawk moths.

White-lined sphinx moths have a very wide distribution that includes most of the United States. In some areas, their tongues are considerably shorter. Here, as they coevolved with certain types of nectar-rich flowers bearing long corolla tubes, their tongues adapted over time.

Since the first of this year’s summer rains on June 18th, we have received 4.25 inches of precipitation. Here is an image of our bosque taken just before the first rains.

The same area, photographed yesterday. The difference is clear – the greening understory is composed primarily of pigweed (Amaranthus palmeri), a native plant that is of great value to a wide variety of birds and mammals. If the rains continue, this vivd understory will be capable of reaching heights of six to seven feet.

This is what is left of a pigweed plant that grew after last summer’s monsoon rains. Pigweed retains much value to wildlife even after it has died and desiccated to a state like this one. Note that the plant has been recently fed upon, and that the cuts at the tips of each stem are sharply defined, cut cleanly at a steep angle. This is a signature left by the incisor teeth of a black-tailed jackrabbit. Nearly all rodents and lagomorphs (members of the rabbit order) leave such distinctive cut marks when they browse on similar types of vegetation. If deer or javelina had done this, the cuts would be rough with frayed edges and not cut at such steep angles.

Our area, the Middle San Pedro Valley, is served by a single dirt road that frequently endures serious damage after monsoon rain storms. I photographed this large wash near our home shortly after dawn, several hours after the flood had crested. The wet marks along either edge reveal a surging flow of flood waters that had crested at over 150 feet in breadth and four feet in depth. Flows this strong are quite capable of quickly carrying away almost any vehicle, even very large trucks.