Wading a Desert River in the Magic of June and Nearly Bitten by a Rattlesnake

For the past twenty years or so, I have participated in a coordinated  volunteer project aimed at monitoring the presence of water along the length of the San Pedro River in southeastern Arizona. Organized by The Nature Conservancy, this project provides important data to scientists, land managers, and many others on the health of the river system during the hottest and driest month of the year. The data is collected the old-fashioned way – gathered by teams who experience the river in the best and most intimate manner possible, by walking and wading. Every June, I collect a portion of this data along a rare, perennially-flowing reach of the San Pedro located in the river’s middle valley, often accompanied by friends and neighbors. This year, two wonderful friends who also happen to be great neighbors assisted me in this worthwhile and delightful task.

Since June always brings oven-like temperatures, we began walking around 5:30am along a waterless stretch of the riverbed. Almost immediately, we discovered fresh tracks of an adult black bear and a cougar, etched in dry sand. One and a half miles in, the magic of water appeared. From that point on, the river flowed steadily. Because the brush is often nearly impenetrable along portions of the riverbanks, we waded, a much easier way to travel as long as one can avoid hidden lenses of quicksand. More mammal signs and tracks appeared; Coue’s whitetail deer, mule deer, javelina, coyote, bobcat, raccoon, coati, skunks, cottontail rabbits, mice and rock squirrels. Familiar bird songs spilled from the forest; summer tanagers and kingbirds, ash-throated flycatchers and song sparrows, southwestern willow flycatchers and black phoebes, grey hawks, tyrannulets, northern cardinals, Lucy’s and yellow warblers, and more.

The river in June is a different world from the surrounding vastness of desert habitat types – humid, verdant with profuse life, cool and shaded. It feels and smells almost subtropical. So much life graces the river and its forests in June that these annual walks have become my favorite time to explore and experience the beauty of the San Pedro.

Wading this desert river in the heat of June is magical. The cottonwood-willow forest stands tall and green, casting shade and coolness enabled by millions of fluttering leaves. The forest’s understory is verdant with lush growth. Eight-foot tall burr reed (genus Scirpus) plants crowd the riverbanks. Aquatic patches of speedwell (genus Veronica) glitter with multitudes of blue-purple blossoms. Tall willows form a vivid green arch overhanging the river. Birds sing from the depths of the forest, many butterflies, bees, and wasps drink from water’s edge, and scores of lowland leopard frogs leap at one’s every step. Below the surface, schools of long-finned dace are darting like shafts of animated light through the clear water. The continued presence of native frogs and fish are strong, positive indicators of the health of this aquatic ecosystem.

Among the most remarkable predators in the insect world, dragonflies are a common sight along the summer river. Some twenty-two years ago, an entomologist discovered nearly one dozen species of dragonflies and damsel flies that were new to science along this part of the river.

We waded for a couple of miles, feeling the warm, shallow waters of the river filling our shoes, until the waterway started to broaden and slowly deepen. I suspected a beaver dam was ahead. We climbed up on shore, then began to weave our way through a dense tangle of tamarisk and seep willow. Before long, we could see the beaver pond clearly, the water deeper and deeper, then the dam, plugging the river with a meter-tall, thirty-foot span of branches, twigs, tree limbs, rocks, and mud. I was elated to see that this reach of the river had beaver activity once again. The ecological and hydrologic benefits of beavers to this river – and many other waterways – are legion. I devoted an essay to this important topic in my book, The Life of the San Pedro River.

A cool, deep pond extends upstream of the beaver dam. Such dams hold more water within the river system, helping to recharge the aquifers that feed the river and its forest. The positive benefits of beaver ponds to plant life and many wildlife species could fill a book. Note the turbidity of the impounded water, a sign that the beaver(s) had been active there the night prior.

A moment of reflection seated atop the beaver dam before I was almost envenomated by a rattlesnake. Photo by Tom Talbott.

       My companions and I slithered down the steep riverbank to begin wading the final stretch below the dam. We had taken just a few steps when one of my friends suddenly threw his arm around me and pulled me out of harm’s way. A 3-foot western diamondback rattlesnake, coiled too close for comfort along the edge of the river channel, erupted in a frenzy of rattling. The forward third of the reptile’s body was off the ground and formed into an s-curve as the snake’s glistening black tongue waved slowly, curled backwards over its snout. Fully cocked, primed, and quite willing to strike. My fresh shoe print was about 14 inches from the rattlesnake. Had I not been yanked so suddenly by my alert friend, this snake would have probably tagged me. I have never come so close, despite encountering hundreds of diamondbacks here over the course of the last two decades. This experience underscores a crucial rule that I try to teach to everyone that I take into the wilds here – you should watch where every footstep is headed during the warmer months in southern Arizona! Sometimes, that is easier said than done.

This is the snake that I stepped far too close to, coiled, rattling, and very ready to strike defensively. Note the recent injury on its back, something that may have amplified its angry mood. If I weighed in at less than a pound or two, and a huge, towering, 200-pound bipedal mammal threatened to step on me, I’d be in a biting mood too.

FIRST RAIN!! Early Summer in the Middle San Pedro River Valley

It has been a very long time since I posted a new entry on this blog. I feel that I owe my readers an explanation. Why no new blog posts? I have been deeply depressed for months – and depressed writers don’t write. In terms of what has been causing this lasting depression, it is a small avalanche of things…the unjustified furor over the most recent presidential election. The insurrection – one of the most unpatriotic acts I ever known to mar my country’s history. The widespread denial of science by millions of Americans. The pandemic – ranking the United States as the world leader in Covid deaths – an inexcusable national embarrassment. Mass shootings -another ghastly national embarrassment, as we lead all other nations on Earth by a very wide margin with respect to such violent, maniacal acts. The mounting gullibility of our populace coupled with a concerted effort by millions to divide a great nation. The horrific war in Ukraine…and there is plenty more, but I will keep the rest private. 

As it has been throughout my life, the world of nature has been a source of peace, calm, reassurance, and sanity during these deeply troubled times. I am so grateful to live far away from towns and cities in a rural setting where birdsong, wildlife, a lack of crowding, and sunlight feed my soul. 

So, what is going on in the Middle San Pedro River Valley lately? The landscape is very dry, even by desert standards. The usual winter rains were both scarce and weak, resulting in an entire region whose mesquite bosques sprouted no green understory plants, a valley floor bereft of the normal growth of winter grasses, perennial reaches of the river receding, and uplands nearly devoid of spring wildflowers. 

The bright crimson fruits of Christmas cactus, Cylindropuntia leptocaulis, bring color to a desperately dry landscape. This species is of special benefit to wildlife, for it retains these nutritious fruits throughout autumn, winter, and into the following spring, even in a very dry year like this one. Indigenous peoples made common use of the fruits of this cactus as a food source.

As far as avian life goes, I have never witnessed such a paucity of birds here, both in terms of species diversity and numbers. Numerous migratory species, birds that I have regularly observed every spring for 20 years, simply did not appear, or appeared in very low numbers. There were no back-throated grey warblers, no orange-crowned or Virginia’s warblers, no Empidonax flycatchers. I recorded the presence of only one Townsend’s warbler during migration, and there were startlingly low numbers of normally abundant yellow-rumped warblers. Rufous-winged sparrows, a common fixture here, are entirely absent from our property this year for the first time ever. On the positive side of things, we now have three dazzling male varied buntings visiting our water dishes daily, two more than any other prior year had provided. Our resident ravens, Mike and Mavis, hatched out a clutch of four a few months ago, just 100 feet from my office window. That brood fell victim to a group of coyotes on the very first night that they left the nest. The determined parents have since built a new nest on a nearby property, a place where the landowner is very appreciative of the local wildlife. Mavis is busy incubating her second  clutch of eggs in a safe place…

Even the local reptiles – especially the snakes – have been few and far between this summer. A few weeks ago, one of our local diamondbacks appeared at our bird pond to drink and grab a feathered meal or two.

This western diamondback – a familiar individual – appeared in May, visiting our bird-watering pond.

I have come to recognize several of the rattlesnakes whose ranges include the area close to our buildings. My sharp-eyed wife pointed out the distinctive, fused blotches on this snake’s tail. With close observation, nearly all rattlesnakes can be recognized as distinct individuals – the patterning and shape of the blotches on the back, and especially markings on the heads and tails of rattlesnakes make it possible to readily identify individuals.

I have seen diamondbacks lay in wait at the edge of our little pond, but very rarely do I see them partially submerged like this.

During the hot months in southeastern Arizona, any water source attracts wildlife of all sorts. Simply maintaining a few water dishes does wonders for throngs of very thirsty birds, reptiles, mammals, and more. Our “bird pond” is nothing more than a shallow depression dug into the ground, fed by a trickling garden hose; very simple to set up and maintain. It would take pages of text to tell all the tales of the remarkable diversity of living creatures that have availed themselves of this water source over the years.

Box turtles have come out of hiding. This one waded into the shallow pond to cool off and rehydrate itself via some long drinks.

A herd of well over 20 javelina visit here daily – here a mother drinks water from the pond while her youngster suckles milk.

Last, but surely not least, as I began to assemble this new blog post on the evening of June 10th, raindrops began pelting the roof! This was no “teaser” rain, no ten-second-this-is-all-you-get rain, but a prolonged rain that wetted the dusty ground and left small puddles in its wonderful wake. This is a rare event, so early in June. Desert life benefits from the gift of every precious drop.

The World’s Most Potent Rattlesnake at my Doorstep

I have seen more rattlesnakes around our home this summer than ever before. During the past six weeks, not a single day has passed when I have not seen at least one western diamondback here – on several days, I have seen as many as four. I don’t mind their presence. This would be a very dull world if it were danger – free, cleansed of any creatures that might harm us. The snakes have a right to be here – this land is not just habitat  for me and my family, but habitat that we share with many other living things.

Yesterday morning brought a surprise that lay snoozing a few feet from my doorway. It was yet another rattlesnake, but the instant I saw this one, I knew it was not a western diamondback, but a Mojave rattlesnake.

Most of the time, when I spot a poisonous serpent close to our home, I simply leave it alone. Given this snake’s proximity to an area that gets frequent daily foot travel, and the extreme toxicity of its venom, I decided to relocate it. I picked the rattlesnake up with a pair of snake tongs, lowered it into an empty trash can, and hauled it to a new home downriver. During the entire procedure, the snake shook its tail only once, and briefly at that.

I knew immediately when I saw this snake under the ramada that it was a Mojave. The greenish-yellowish tinge to its skin stands out in contrast to the local western diamondbacks, whose coloration tends to be more silvery gray. Note also the sawtoothed edging to the snake’s dorsal blotches. Our diamondbacks rarely show such edges on their “diamonds,” or dorsal blotches.

How toxic is this snake’s venom? Some sources say the venom of Mojave rattlesnakes is ten times more potent than that of other rattlesnakes. (There is one notable exception here – tiger rattlesnakes, which also occur in the Middle San Pedro Valley, are nearly as potent as Mojaves.) Other sources label this species as one of the most toxic snakes in the entire hemisphere. That is saying a lot, especially considering some of the elapid snakes that live in Central and South America. As if that were not enough, research has demonstrated that the Mojave rattlesnakes that inhabit Cochise County produce a unique venom that is even more potent than that of other Mojave rattlesnakes in other parts of their range. Rattlesnake venoms are complex organic cocktails consisting of many ingredients including proteins, polypeptides, metal ions, fats, enzymes, and more. Most rattlesnake species have hemotoxic venoms – venoms that destroy red blood cells, interfere with clotting, and damage tissue. The principal components of Mojave venom are neurotoxic – they act on the central nervous system. A bite from one of these snakes can cause severe paralysis and even cardiac arrest. 

So yes, I decided to move the snake away from our home.

This Mojave rattlesnake was captured and relocated by a warm-hearted friend a few years ago; he brought the snake to here to show it to me before releasing it back into the wild. This snake was on his doorstep as well, better relocated than shot or clubbed to death.

Much like sharks or grizzly bears, rattlesnakes are widely misunderstood and unjustly feared by the public. These fears are rooted in ignorance and a cultural bias regarding the world of nature and our place in it. Here in Arizona, where rattlesnakes are common and widespread, more than half of all bites are provoked. (Yes, Darwin was right!) Most of the remaining bites could be easily avoided by a combination of unflagging awareness, protective footwear, and snake gaiters. Awareness means keeping one’s eyes fixed carefully on the ground when moving around outdoors, and always using flashlights after dark. If you look carefully where you are going, you are much less likely to step too close to a snake. When I hike locally during the warm months, I always wear a pair of leather boots and snake gaiters. Simple precautions can really pay off.

Identification of Mojave rattlesnakes is not always a simple task; occasionally, these snakes hybridize with western diamondbacks. They also come in many differing shades of color. The most certain identifying characteristic are the two large scales atop the snake’s head that lie in-between its supraocular scales – (the very large scales that cover the upper portion of the snake’s eyes). Western diamondbacks usually have six or seven much smaller scales between their supraoculars.

If a person does get bitten, it is imperative to get medical help as soon as possible. Time is utterly crucial when it comes to treating snakebite victims. In this rural landscape, that means a helicopter flight to a hospital in Tucson. The average cost of treating a bite victim has risen to over $75,000 per incident. With that in mind, I think that a small investment in a pair of snake gaiters (most cost less than $100 per pair) and some good boots is a very wise move.

Tail markings are also useful in identification. Mojave rattlesnakes usually show narrower, less distinct black banding on their tails than diamondback rattlesnakes.

In contrast, most western diamondbacks have considerably wider, distinct black bands on their tails.

In closing this post, I must say that I do not recommend relocating reptiles. For rattlesnakes, relocation beats getting killed, but is stressful to them, and can result in an inability to survive. Rattlesnakes occupy definitive home ranges, areas that they come to know and navigate through successfully. One of the most critical aspects of their lives has to do with knowing where a suitable site is for hibernation. (The correct term in use these days is “brumation,” not “hibernation.” I used the old term because many more people are familiar with it.) If a snake cannot find its way to such a site, it is not likely to survive the winter. Relocated snakes have been documented to have problems with this, especially if they are moved late in autumn.

The EGGS Have HATCHED! Signs of Spring Adorn a Desperate Landscape

Late in the evening of April 17th, new sounds could be heard emanating from the surrounding mesquite bosque. Barely audible but familiar from prior years, the sounds were raspy, tremulous, unique. They were the first thin cries of hatchling ravens, born to none other than our pair of resident Chihuahuan ravens, Mike and Mavis. This new brood marks their seventh successful nesting on our property and their first in the new nest (described in my previous blog post). As always, we are honored to share habitat with these regal birds. We look forward to watching them raise and teach their young. Few North American birds spend as much time rearing and educating their young as ravens do.

The demands of a raven’s day-to-day life reach a crescendo during nesting season. After the chicks have hatched, both parent birds spend their days defending the nest from predators and making countless trips back and forth to bring food and water to their young. Nestling birds require amazing amounts of food at frequent intervals. Here, the mother raven is about to abscond with a tasty block of suet.

The past year has been the driest I have ever witnessed in southeastern Arizona. Last year’s crucial summer rains barely happened here in the Middle San Pedro River Valley, and the following winter rains were extremely sparse. The landscape is desperately dry, even for a desert, so signs of spring have been more welcome than ever. One of them appeared several weeks ago when a black swallowtail flew in to get a drink from a muddy patch of soil near one of our bird water dishes. Butterflies play very important roles in the ecology of this ecosystem. They grace our lives with their flight and their remarkable beauty.

A black swallowtail, (Papilio polyxenes), gets a drink from a patch of wet soil. Caterpillars of this species can be found primarily on plants in the parsley family.

Another sign of the changing seasons was the emergence of a  beetle known as the fiery searcher. Just over an inch in length, these beetles display gorgeous coloration; an indigo-purple head, thorax, and legs with emerald green, iridescent elytra (wing coverings). This marked the first time that I have ever encountered this species here in a mesquite woodland. Usually, I find them in the riparian cottonwood-willow forests along the San Pedro River.

A fiery searcher, (Calosoma scrutator ). This insect is classified within the family Carabidae, the ground beetles. Fiery searchers are active during the day, hunting caterpillars and grubs. The species pictured here manufactures noxious chemical compounds for defense; they smell horrendous and probably taste just as bad to potential predators.

Another certain sign of spring is the emergence of reptiles. A few weeks ago, I had a surprise when I retrieved a wheelbarrow from an open shed. I always keep wheelbarrows flipped over so that rain water cannot accumulate inside and rust them out. When I flipped the wheelbarrow over, here is what I found…

This western diamondback had discovered a safe, dark place to hide in, until I needed the wheelbarrow.

I have found rattlesnakes under my wheelbarrows more than once in the past. All snakes – including rattlesnakes – are always welcome on our land. We never kill them. Once in a rare while, I will capture and move one to a safer locale, but usually I simply let them be, like this one. I do my best to respect all life!

A closer look at the formerly hidden snake. Rattlesnakes at rest almost invariably assume this characteristic, circular posture.

With respect to most species, snakes can be readily identified by their markings and coloration. Rattlesnakes, gopher snakes, and many other snakes can be recognized even further, as distinct individuals. The markings on their heads and necks are individually unique, much like our fingerprints.

Yesterday, another sign of spring showed up nearby, a beautiful glossy snake. They are among the most common snakes in local mesquite bosques. Glossy snakes can reach lengths approaching four feet and feed on mice, kangaroo rats, lizards, and other snakes.

Glossy snakes are commonly mistaken for gopher snakes. One of several ways to tell them apart is that gopher snakes have keeled scales on their backs, whereas all of the scales on glossy snakes are smooth. Their technical moniker is hard to forget: Arizona elegans. The whitish object in the upper left quadrant of the image is a velvet mesquite bean.

The local stands of mesquite furnish very high quality firewood in addition to providing crucially important habitat to numerous wildlife species. Recently, a dead mesquite was felled here on our place that was threatening to crush one of our buildings if it were allowed to fall naturally. I sawed it into firewood. Other dead trees are left standing, for they are very important to many living creatures and to the health of the soil that they will eventually become a part of.

We live in an age when most adults and even our children are soft, weak, and overweight. Machines now do much of our work for us, and recreation often consists of vegetating in front of a computer screen or playing sedentary video games. A little physical work will always do a body good. I have felled, bucked, hauled, and stacked more firewood than I can ever recall. My decades in Montana always included a demand for at least eight cords of wood annually. Even here in southern Arizona, winters get chilly and a warm wood stove can be a real comfort on frosty nights.