A Celebration of Birds in a Birdwatcher’s Paradise

Few places in the United States can rival the watershed of Arizona’s San Pedro River as one of the nation’s premier birding hotspots. A phenomenal richness of birds has been documented here – well over 450 species. Join  me as I celebrate this gift of life with a sampling of our beautiful, diverse, and fascinating avian fauna…

One of the rarest colors among all the creatures of planet Earth is blue, here brought to brilliant life by a male blue Grosbeak, (Passerina caerulea).

The broad-billed hummingbird, (Cynanthus latirostris), tiny and utterly dazzling, underscores the need for a pair of good binoculars to enable full appreciation – not to mention a heightened sense of wonder – of this jewel-encrusted sprite. Unfortunately, it has been dubbed with one of the dullest and most unimaginative of names.

Hummingbirds are important pollinators of many native plants. Here, a fitting example of coevolution presents itself: the saguaro evolved to raise its flowers high into the desert air as an offering to flying pollinators like bats and hummingbirds. The bats and the birds are able to locate these tall beacons at long distances. The height of the saguaro’s blossoms ensures that its pollinators will remain secure and at ease, out of the reach of a long list of ground-based predators.

Ravens are the most intelligent birds in our country – they possess larger brains relative to their body size than any of our other species. Ravens also have the largest vocabulary of all American birds, they mate for life, and they can live for decades. These black-as-night birds are absolute masters of flight. Magic attends all ravens. This is Mavis, a female Chihuahuan Raven (Corvus cryptoleucus), who has successfully raised many broods here on our property with the help of her mate, Mike.

A fledgling raven spends months with its siblings and parents, exploring and learning about its world. During that crucially important period in their lives, the young birds meet many of their neighbors for the first time. Adult box turtles like this one have little to fear from the fledglings, but neonate turtles are a favorite food.

Cooper’s Hawks, (Accipiter cooperii), are what instill constant wariness and universal fear in most other birds of smaller or equal size. These hawks are specialized, highly skilled bird hunters. Utilizing the combination of a long, rudder-like tail, lightning reflexes, powerful flight musculature, and incredibly sharp eyesight, they are among the world’s most capable avian predators.

The sight of a Crested Caracara, (Caracara plancus) in the Middle San Pedro Valley is a rare treat. Caracaras are classified as members of the Falconidae, the falcon family. The crested caracara is the world’s second largest falcon.

Elegant, gorgeous, and highly social, Gambel’s Quail, (Callipepla gambelii) are common valley residents. The ecology of this species is closely linked with Gila monsters, for quail eggs (and occasionally young chicks) are a major food source for the big lizards.

Greater Roadrunners, (Geococcyx californianus), are a frequent sight here, but seeing them in snow is anything but common, for snow is rare in the valley floor. Their tail feathers display are an eye-catching blend of beautiful iridescent greens and bronze. Roadrunner populations are locally cyclic, but what determines that is something I have yet to learn.

Lark Sparrows, (Chondestes grammacus), are a great example of why no one should be without a pair of binoculars. Seen with the naked eye, they are just another small, drab brown bird. Viewed through binoculars, these sparrows come to life with ornate patterning and rich, saturated colors.

A Loggerhead Shrike, (Lanius ludovicianus) scans for its prey from an elevated perch in a velvet mesquite. “Loggerhead” refers to the shrike’s unusually large head. (The largest non-pelagic turtle in our country also shares this moniker with the shrike: “loggerhead snapping turtle.”) Shrikes sometimes impale their prey on long thorns and even on barbed wire. This beautiful predator has been in sharp decline all across its range for decades. Loggerheads are the only shrike endemic to the United States.

Dressed in vivd red hues, Northern Cardinals, (Cardinalis cardinalis) are a visual standout in any habitat type – that is why cardinals tend to spend much of their time concealed in dense shrubs or other types of thick cover. In the valley, cardinals have a very close association with graythorn (Zizyphus obtusiloba) bushes, where they find safety and peace of mind within the thick maze of very thorny branches that so characterize graythorns.

As humans, we tend to conceptualize and visualize birds either in flight, or as viewed laterally (from the side). I think this posterior view of a northern cardinal may outdo any other viewpoint – what an amazing crest!

Decades ago, Spotted Owls, (Strix occidentalis) ignited a huge controversy when they were added to the endangered species list. Many people lost sight of the fact that it was not just the birds that mattered, for spotted owls were a symbol for what really mattered most: the ecoregion itself – the magnificent coastal rainforests of our westernmost states that have literally been torn to shreds by humanity’s rapacious demand for wood products. Few people know that these owls are also residents of the Sierra Madrean Ecoregion. Sometimes known as “Mexican spotted owls,” this subspecies – Strix occidentalis lucida – reaches the northern tip of its range in the San Pedro Watershed. During a very lucky day, I photographed this individual in the Huachuca Mountains.

There are few more vivid ways to mark the coming of spring to the Middle San Pedro Valley than the arrival of Vermillion Flycatchers, (Pyrocephalus rubinus). These tiny birds light up the fields and bosques in early March – before the mesquite trees leaf out. Adult males are wearing freshly grown feathers in March, plumage so pure and bright that these minuscule flycatchers can be seen with the naked eye at distances approaching 100 yards. Their crowns sport the most radiant part of their plumage, hence the name “Pyrocephalus,” which translates to “flaming head.”

A Spectacular Neon Sunset, Dawn’s Rainbow, and the Perfect Raven Portrait

Sights like the one above depicting a vivid sunset over the Rincon Mountains are relatively rare here – after all, this is a desert ecosystem, and the first requirement for a memorable sunset is a sky strewn with clouds.

Yesterday evening brought just such a sky, festooned with three distinct layers of clouds – low, mid-altitude, and high altitude clouds.

As our world steadily rotated eastward, away from the setting sun, strong winds began to sculpt bands of high cirrostratus clouds into undulating threads of radiant color.

These clouds are composed entirely of ice crystals capable of diffracting sunlight into its vibrant, full spectra.

A closer look into the constantly changing palette of moving colors.

As the sunset peaked, wisps of clouds more than four miles high tangoed with the wind, wrought into life by a spellbinding blend of motion and neon colors.

The following morning brought another show of beautiful natural light. Photo by Kathleen Waldt.

Mike, (one of our pair of resident Chihuahuan ravens), caught in the warm glow of early morning sunlight, admiring the rainbow arcing over his spacious world of Earth and open sky. Photo by Kathleen Waldt.

An Inferno of a Summer, Huge Arthropods, and Arizona’s Tiniest Mammals

This has been one of the driest and hottest summers I can recall here in the Middle San Pedro River Valley. During “normal” summers, monsoon rains arrive between the middle and the end of June and continue through August and much of September. The two previous monsoon seasons brought us a welcome abundance of rain, but this year has remained very, very dry. Daytime highs for the past six weeks have averaged around 106°F., with more than a few days reaching 110° or higher. This year’s highest temperature registered at a crispy 115°F. on July 17.

Our mesquite bosque remains dry, the understory of dense London rocket plants yellowed and brittle. Usually, by the end of July, this scene should be bursting with vivid green growth in the form of Amaranthus palmeri and many other native plant species.

Despite our xeric summer, velvet mesquite trees in our bosque have produced a nice crop of pods, followed by a second flowering during the past couple of weeks. The trees are drawing on water from last summer’s abundant storms; mesquite has the rare ability to transport water in both directions within its extensive, very deep root system. Water can be transported deep underground and stored for later use.
A fresh splay of velvet mesquite blossoms perfumes the air and reminds us that desert plants have evolved uncanny mechanisms to stay alive and even thrive under dry, difficult conditions.

Mesquite blossoms lead to garlands of bright green pods growing from pendant branches. Mule and whitetailed deer love to feed on low-hanging bunches of these young pods. When ripe, the seed pods turn yellow and fall to the ground. There, they become one of the most crucial and nutritious wildlife foods in the entire ecosystem, eagerly fed upon by a very long list of native animals from mice to coyotes to bears and many more.

Despite the drought, this was a banner year for a widespread local species known as catclaw acacia, Acacia gregii. (See the photos in my previous blog post.) Throughout the valley, these large shrubs/small trees flowered explosively. The scent from their blossoms is intoxicatingly wonderful. Much like mesquite pods, the seed pods of acacias are fed upon by a wide variety of native wildlife.

Dry conditions leave fine coatings of dust on our driveway – an excellent newspaper that I strive to read daily. This summer has revealed tracks of mice, kangaroo rats, gray foxes, coyotes, raccoons, mule and whitetailed deer, a cougar, hooded skunks, quail, doves, and other birds including this trackway of a Chihuahuan raven.

A closer look at the raven’s tracks reveals their relatively large size, distinctively lobed feet, and shallow drag marks made by their posterior claws.

A mystery…last week, I noticed something I had not seen before: dense clumps of small, black native bees forming in certain graythorn (Zizyphus) bushes. I have no idea what is going on here, nor what species these bees are – there are well over 1,200 species of native bees in this ecosystem, representing the richest known bee fauna in the world.
I found this adult giant mesquite bug (Thasus californicus) roaming under my ramada the day before I posted this blog. These are large insects that are true bugs (Hemipterans) as opposed to a type of beetle (Coleopterans).

A lateral view of the mesquite bug reveals the tube-like mouthpart that it uses to feed on plant liquids. The tube is inserted, syringe-like, into the stems of plants. These specialized feeding tubes are a primary characteristic that separates true bugs from beetles.

Prior to maturation, giant mesquite bugs exist in the form of wingless nymphs. The nymphs form colonies that feed on liquids from various species of trees and shrubs. The nymphs go through several instars before finally transforming into adults, all of which exhibit these very bright red colors. The nymphs are protected with self-manufactured noxious chemicals that make them taste bad to predators, hence their aposematic coloration.

Arizona’s smallest mammals are shrews; I found this one – dead but still warm – on the floor of our bosque. This species is known as the desert shrew, Notiosorex crawfordi. Shrews are among the most highly energized, frenetic mammals on Earth. They require remarkable amounts of food – up to nearly half their body weight on a daily basis. They almost never stop moving, constantly on the hunt. I wonder how they have time to dream.

This sight greeted me a few mornings ago, when I walked outside just after dawn to see this giant centipede (Scolopendra heros) clinging to the wall of my adobe building. The broom handle gives a sense of scale. This one was just under seven inches long – and they get bigger than this, up to nine inches in length. Very large specimens measure around an inch in width across their backs, are equipped with formidable pincers, and can move at astounding speeds.

High winds snapped this velvet mesquite trunk at the location of a cavity hollowed out by Gila woodpeckers. I have seen such tree breaks many times, both locally in this southern desert and in the northern Rockies. There is a complex relationship between cavity-making birds and their varied roles in forest ecology that may be more important we know.

A close look at the exposed woodpecker cavity shows the remnants of a successful nesting season. Last month, a pair of ash-throated flycatchers raised a batch of young within the sheltered confines of this tree cavity.

This image should be entitled “HOPE”… a series of empty, dry water buckets under my roofline, hoping and waiting for the summer rains. Why collect rainwater when we have a well, particularly summer rain water? The summer storms often feature stunning amounts of lightning, which allows substantial amounts of elemental nitrogen to be carried from the atmosphere (via rainfall) down to the ground, where it greens the Earth. All gardeners should learn that summer rain water collected after lightning storms works magic on plant growth.

Lightning Strikes 53 Feet From Me, a Deluge of Rain, Fireflies, Floods, and Images from a Wonderful Monsoon Season

The lightning bolt slammed into the ground with thousands of times the force and speed of a sledgehammer blow on an anvil. It struck so close to me that I heard no thunder, only the unmistakably loud, monstrously powerful  “snap” that is characteristic of a bolt that hits far too near to its observer. I had been sitting on my bed reading when it happened; I knew instantly what had occurred, for this was not the first time that lightning had struck so close to me that no thunder could be heard. Many years as a guide in the wilderness mountains of Montana had brought me into near-contact with lightning along high ridges at timber line more than a few times. It is one of nature’s most lethal forces when it strikes living creatures, but the other side of lightning is that it is one of the world’s most quintessentially important life-giving phenomena. For the full story, see pages 204-205 in my book, The Life of the San Pedro River. The next morning, I found the place where the bolt had impacted. A tape measure revealed that the lightning had struck 53 feet away. The electromagnetic pulse from that bolt fried our telephone system and our computer router.

The storms of this year’s monsoon season in southern Arizona have been wonderful – thus far, our rain gauge has registered 9.56 inches of rain since mid-June, resulting in a grand resurgence of life all across this hot and formerly dry landscape.

On the morning of August 20, a serious storm pounded the ground with so much rain that the area around our buildings became an unbroken sheet of water. I could hear toads starting to call  from our overflowing bird pond. Before long, dozens of spadefoot toads came out of their underground lairs to join in the party, all of them hopping and swimming through the flooded landscape in beelines toward the pond. This was a critical time for the amphibians, for in a normal year, they get only one or two brief chances to breed. It was also a rare sight, for I have never seen such activity in the daytime…but this was a doozy of a storm.

Mavis – the female half of the raven pair that we share habitat with – takes shelter from the storm under the roof of our shed.

As the rain subsided, I stepped outside. I heard the familiar roar of one of our local washes that had become engorged with flood water. A short walk of a quarter mile took me to a place where I could look down from the edge of a vertical cutbank at the flowing wash…

The view from the cutbank after 2.6 inches of rain from a single storm swelled Hot Springs Wash with roiling floodwaters. Only a single channel is visible in this image. The waters braided across the broad wash floor in an ever-changing – and growing – number of channels. Powerful floods are characteristic of desert washes with large drainage areas (this wash drains an area of about 100 square miles) and steep slopes in their headwater areas.

Next, I walked over to see what was going on in the little pond – there were eight pairs of Couch’s spadefoot toads in amplexus! A couple days later, after thousands of toad eggs hatched, our pond was teeming with wriggling throngs of tiny tadpoles.

Couch’s spadefoot toads mating in our pond. Each female usually lays hundreds of tiny eggs during such couplings, as the male releases sperm into the water.

After the mating frenzy, myriad spadefoot eggs clung to every blade of grass afloat in the water.

Later in the day, Kathleen and I walked down the road to have a look at where the big wash crosses the road. The sound of the flood grew loud as we approached a point where we could see the flow, over 300 feet in width. The dirt road – the only road that serves the entire valley – had become impassable once again. In the midst of the turbulent flow, where the waters ran deepest, trees were being tossed around like toys, ripped from their root-bound moorings as they sped downslope toward the San Pedro River. Hundreds of tons of sediment, gravel, and rocks were being transported toward the floor of the valley in a rip-roaring tumult of rain water.

A view of the flood as it obliterated the roadway where it crosses the usually dry bed of Hot Springs Wash. During the twenty summers that I have seen this wash respond to rainfall events, only twice have I witnessed it running larger than this.

As we were watching the floodwaters, I climbed to a higher vantage point, where I discovered this beautiful Sonoran gopher snake. The snake allowed me to gently approach within a foot or so. This was a fine specimen, over 5 1/2 feet in length.

A few hours later, the sun had melted down into the nether regions of the western horizon. My wife and I walked outside around 11:00pm to listen to the night sounds. After turning off our flashlights, we witnessed something that is seldom seen here – fireflies!! Few of Earth’s creatures are capable of instilling such an immediate and compelling sense of awe and wonder as fireflies are. They were emitting distinctive, paired flashes of remarkably bright green light – in so doing, they identified themselves down to the species level. We were seeing southwestern synchronous fireflies, Photinus knulli.

A couple of days after the big storm, I walked down to the San Pedro River. Many areas within the river’s drainage had received substantial rains, bringing the river to life. Here, el Río is surging along with a flow roughly 180 feet in breadth and over six feet in depth.

Downstream, a group of turkey vultures was roosting in a pair of dead cottonwood trees. Dead trees are an essential and important component of all forested areas on Earth. All too often, humans fail to recognize this aspect of our planet’s ecology. Our culture – embedded in the ecologically dangerous Abrahamic concept of land use – (the land is here to produce our milk and honey, for human use) – tends to see dead trees as “going to waste.” “Salvage logging” of our national forests after wildfires is an exemplification this anthropocentric view of our living world.

The rainy season brings twilight flights of thousands of buprestid beetles just above the canopy of our local mesquite bosques. Here, a very rare sight unfolds as a female Polycesta aruentis everts her ovipositor to lay her delicate eggs deep within the sheltering crack of a mesquite stump, where they will be out of reach of the sun’s touch. Her larvae will hatch to bore their way through the wood, leaving tunnels in their wake that greatly facilitate the entry of fungi and other agents of decomposition. Thus, insects like this play a critically important role in forest ecology.

A half-grown (about four inches in length) Sonoran desert toad enjoys our bird pond after a rain. These amphibians grow to prodigious sizes. If I am not mistaken, they are the heaviest toads native to North America.

Living in remote parts of the desert southwest demands some important learned behaviors. Only fools step outside without looking first. This diamondback had just finished crawling across my entry steps when I took this photo. Snakes of all kinds are always welcome on our property – but continuous caution when one ventures outdoors is an imperative part of living here.

A RAVEN’S UNFORGETTABLE COURTSHIP DISPLAY, RARELY SEEN!

“One thousand feet above the valley floor, a large bird cuts an arc across a universe of clear azure sky. The bird is black, so black that it pierces a hole in the heavens, a mysterious place where all light gathers to coalesce into an extraordinary being. It is a creature wrapped in a cloak that dines on light, a creature that melts into the darkness of midnight but lives to greet the morning sun. It is an exquisite merging of feather and form, a fusion of mind and voice that we know as the raven.”

That is how I opened the essay on ravens in my new book, The Life of the San Pedro River. I have nurtured an ever-growing fascination and respect for ravens since my teenage years. Here in southeastern Arizona, my wife and I share land with a pair of Chihuahuan ravens that we have known quite closely for the past nine years. They are Mike and Mavis. Their lives have been undergoing an exciting change during the past month.

Mike maintains a daily presence here, forever welcome. His mate is almost always close by.

For six consecutive years, Mike and Mavis raised annual broods of young ravens in a nest located in a mesquite tree only 110 feet from our home. However, during the past two years, they moved to a new nesting site on a neighbor’s property some 300 yards distant, again in a tall mesquite. We missed them!

Mike digging with his beak. Chihuahuan ravens commonly cache food items for later use. Some food is placed in the crotches of trees. Far more often, these birds dig holes, drop a morsel of food into the hole, then cover the food with an inch or two of soil. Equipped with exceptional minds, ravens have no trouble relocating their numerous, well-hidden caches, even weeks later.

Despite the fact that ravens have stout, formidable claws, I have never seen them use their feet for digging, as other birds do.

Four weeks ago, I looked out my office window to see Mike fly by with a stick in his mouth. He was not heading south towards the distant nest site, but instead flew about 100 feet to the north and lit in a mesquite, where he placed the stick. That got my attention! As I watched during the days that followed, it became clear that a new nest was being built on our property.

The pair bonding between adult ravens may be closer and longer lasting than any other North American birds. Mike and Mavis are together year-round; feeding, foraging, nesting, exploring, and sleeping as a pair. That’s Mike on the left; note his thicker neck, larger head, and bigger body in comparison to his female companion.

Watching ravens build a nest is a lesson in patience, determination, and tenacity. Branch after branch is carefully selected, then carried aloft to the tree. By “carefully selected,” I mean just that – if a stick is partially rotted or otherwise infirm, it won’t do. Each stick must be within certain parameters with respect to weight, thickness and length. Once a suitable stick is found, it is skillfully balanced in the beak for the flight to the nest, then placed in a manner that is anything but random. For three weeks, I watched as hundreds upon hundreds of sticks left the forest floor to become airborne, a reverse journey back into the canopy they had sprung from. A nest took shape, growing deeper day by day. Three weeks passed, then Mike and Mavis abruptly changed their behavior. Stick gathering  had been completed, so it became time to line the nest with soft, fluffy materials. Scouring the neighborhood, the ravens found lengths of discarded baling twine, clumps of horse and deer hair, even pieces of cardboard that they ripped from a box that had been stored in an open shed. Now fully complete, the nest awaits its purpose. Soon, Mavis will lay her eggs and a new generation of some of the most intelligent birds on Earth will come into being.

The newly constructed Raven Hilton, built in the branches of a velvet mesquite. If all goes well, we will soon hear new voices emanating from the nest. Hatchling ravens produce low-volume, unique sounds that rapidly increase in volume and complexity as they grow.

One morning during the nest-lining period, both ravens came gliding through the trees to land on the ground within a dozen feet of my wife and I as we were seated under the ramada. Some very delicate, amorous preening followed as Mike ran his beak through Mavis’s neck and chest feathers. The birds were conversing with one another as this took place, uttering a soft language known only to them, a language marked by the deep-seated intimacy of a life-long pair bond that can last more than a quarter century. The preening done, Mike ambled over to within a dozen feet of us. There, he began a courtship display, hoping to win his mate’s admiration and acceptance. He lowered his stance until his body was almost flat on the ground, then fanned his tail wide. He partially opened his wings and erected the feathers on the crown of his head. His sleek indigo-black body quivered as he made a series of soft, percussive snaps with his stout beak. We were very lucky to witness this, and even luckier to get a few photographs. Only a few scant minutes of each year are dedicated to such interludes in the lives of ravens, interludes that maintain the circle of life.

Mike performing his courtship display.

As I was just about to hit the “publish” button to launch this blog post, a sudden drama unfolded just outside my office window. A red-tailed hawk made the mistake of flying too close to the new raven nest. Mike took off at high speed, chasing and diving on the hawk relentlessly. Ravens are masters of flight, a fact quickly apparent to anyone who has watched such events unfold. With very quick, elegant turns, dives, and rolls he chased the raptor for more than 250 yards before finally returning to the nest site. I have watched this pair of ravens defend their nesting sites with great vigor and determination many times. They have given brave and vociferous chase to coyotes, bobcats, a gray fox, many hawks, and more over the years. Anyone reading this who has raised children should understand such actions. I was once charged – repeatedly – by a ruffed grouse defending its chicks. Mind you, that is a bird no larger than your average chicken. I know of a Montana grizzly bear that charged and bit a slow-moving locomotive three times after the train hit one of her cubs. Motherhood and the protection of one’s young are among nature’s most powerful and important forces.

For much more on these incredible, amazing birds, read the essay entitled “Mike and Mavis” in The Life of the San Pedro River

For an even deeper journey into the fascinating lives of ravens, I highly recommend these two books, written by Dr. Bernd Heinrich, an astute biologist and acclaimed author: Ravens in Winter, and Mind of the Raven.