Rattlesnakes doing the Tango, a Rare Native Plant, Spring and Summer Images

If any of my few readers have wondered why it has been so long sice I posted a new entry to this blog…  It has been a hard summer and a harder fall for my family, culminating in the loss of a beloved family member. Here in the Middle San Pedro Valley, bastion of the state’s second-largest expanse of wild, undeveloped land, (Grand Canyon National Park is the largest), a huge power transmission project, (spearheaded by a mega-company called the Pattern Energy Group LP),  is busy ripping a tremendous gash across the length of the valley. A deep, wide, and ugly scar has been bulldozed for dozens of miles, traversing an irreplaceable tract of de-facto wilderness. Yes, all of us depend upon electrical power, but at what cost?

In other news, the political affairs of my country have degraded into a nightmare of national divisiveness, hatred, religious self-righteousness, and utterly stunning voter gullibility. How can any nation, much less ours, allow a lifetime criminal with multiple felony convictions to run for the presidency? How can our country allow those who preside over the highest court in the land to be hand-picked by only one person?

All of these things have combined to leave me in a pervasive state of depression and more than a few near-sleepless nights. When depression rears its ugly head, it  becomes very difficult to get into the mood required to write. But I am determined to try…

The past summer monsoon season brought the usual fickle rains to the valley; some locations received considerably more – or less – rainfall than others only a few miles apart. Here at our place, we recorded 7.94 inches of rain, substantially less than usual. Our bosque never greened up with a lush understory of Amaranthus palmeri as it has done so many times in past summers. The irreverent common name of this native plant is “Palmer’s pigweed.” It plays a very important, multi-faceted role in the local ecology. Despite the brown, withered understory and general lack of moisture, the natural world has gifted us with some beautiful sights and special events this year, including the appearance of a “life bird” at our water dishes, (a dickcissel), and the dazzling sight of a long-tailed comet blazing across the twilight sky.

A rare, perennially-flowing reach of the San Pedro River literally glows with the intense fecundity of summer life. I captured this photograph in late June, when plant growth in the riverbottom explodes in a riot of lush greenery teeming with insect life, bird song, and much more. Very high daytime temperatures combine with high localized humidity to make the river and its summer forest feel almost tropical.

Gould’s turkeys are part of a group of varied creatures native to the Sierra Madrean Ecoregion that reach the northern tip of their ranges here in southeastern Arizona. In a word, they are special. This spring, a hen began frequenting our bosque on a daily basis. One day, she appeared with a clutch of nine freshly-hatched chicks in tow. During the next couple of weeks, the nine young turkeys had been reduced to these survivors that the mother bird managed to rear successfully for the remainder of the spring and summer.

Our resident pair of Chihuahuan ravens, Mike and Mavis, did it again this year! This time, they hatched a clutch of four chicks in a nest built in a velvet mesquite tree located just 125 feet from my office window. Here is the entire family in early summer – four extremely inquisitive young ravens being protected and taught by two devoted parents. As always, we are honored to share habitat with them.

Our hit-or-miss summer rains fell with greater abundance on parts of the lower valley, resulting in a landscape adorned with lush plant growth. In late August, a wonderful friend and fellow naturalist, Daniel Baker, asked if I could accompany him on a morning walk into that area – he wanted to show me something extraordinary he had discovered. Daniel had found some rare plants that shared something in common with Gould’s turkeys –  their natural range extended beyond Mexico just far enough to allow them to thrive here in Cochise County.

I will never forget that morning, for the plants that Daniel shared with me were fascinating, captivating, and rare. Growing as vines, Mexican passionflowers – Passiflora mexicana – were in bloom, exuding the penetrating essence of napthalene. As our walk ended that morning, I kept wondering what species of insects those gorgeous flowers could be courting with the essence of mothballs!

Certain events in our lives weld themselves into our permanent memories. As a lifelong naturalist, I tend to recall with exceptional vividness and in intricate detail many things I have seen in the natural world that are rare and therefore beyond forgetting. My first wild wolverine, mating grizzly bears, the first lynx, a hawk owl in the contiguous USA, a glittering male trogon perched in an oak tree, an avalanche roaring downslope to flatten a mature forest, a pack of Montana wolves teaching their pups how to hunt voles in tall meadow grass.

I have been very fortunate to witness nature in ways that most people will never know, but this September brought an event that I thought I would not ever be lucky enough to see – rattlesnakes engaged in “combat.” What’s more is that I spotted the two snakes rising up from the floor of yon bosque from my desk window! The rattlesnakes were forming a gentle “S” curve side-by-side as they reared upward, their white scutes facing me at a distance of about 80 feet. Although I had never seen such behavior, I knew immediately what was happening. Excitedly, I rushed outside with the only camera I own these days, the cheap one built into my “smart” phone.

       A number of different rattlesnake species have been documented to exhibit this seldom-seen behavior. Only male rattlesnakes do this. To this day, I don’t know of anyone who has proven definitively what is going on when they “fight” like this. A prevalent theory holds that such behavior may be a contest for male dominance during breeding season. That seems to make good sense. However, I observed these two western diamondbacks at close range for several hours as they “fought;” I looked very carefully during the whole event for any nearby female without any success. Perhaps one or both of the male snakes had been scent-trailing a local female when they met one another. If you have ever wondered how snakes find one another in order to mate, that is how it is done – olfactorily, via exquisitely sensitive forked tongues and very capable vomeronasal organs.

This is what I saw on a warm, late September afternoon from my window – a pair of adult male western diamondbacks rising upward, their visually-striking white belly scutes contrasting vividly with their surroundings.

The snakes lifted upward in tandem to amazing heights again and again and again.

As they neared the limit of their upward postures, one of the snakes would attempt to cross its body over its opponent. If that move succeeded, the snake would violently throw the other one to the ground with a quick, powerful twist of its body.

When one snake slammed the other to the ground with enough force, one – or occasionally both of them – would land upside down on their backs. The struggle between the two rattlesnakes continued for hours without abatement, until dusk. As it got too dark to photograph them, I went indoors. I don’t know how much longer the snakes battled, but they must have been utterly exhausted when I left them. What a show this was!

This Gila monster appeared on a hot, late August afternoon, seeking shade behind my mini-split AC unit. Note the large head, a characteristic of adult male Gila monsters. This one measured 18 1/2 inches in length. They are always welcome here, as are all native reptiles, including the rattlesnakes that do us a great service by keeping a very destructive mouse population in check. (Certain local species of mice do major, costly damage to the electrical systems of vehicles, chewing the wiring as if it were gourmet mouse candy.)

One of Humanity’s Greatest Fears – in Celebration of Snakes!

Among our most universal and compelling fears, one that is widespread across cultures, continents, and through vast spans of time, is the fear of snakes. In terms of simple survival, this makes perfect sense; many snakes can be lethal. For countless millennia, I am sure that people knew which snakes were dangerous and which were not.

In modern times, our culture has become so disassociated with the natural world that most of us can no longer identify what species are harmless and what kinds are not. The deep-rooted, possibly instinctual fear of snakes remains – when coupled with widespread ignorance, it results in the needless death of many snakes every year. You say rattlesnakes are easy to identify? Tell that to the many people who have killed slightly similar gophersnakes, thinking they were rattlers. Or to the screamers that wield shovels in attempts to automatically kill any snake they see.

The photograph above the title depicts a pair of mating western diamondbacks. A reminder – if you are viewing this in your email, you will not see the header images. Move your cursor over the title and click on it to be re-directed to my blog site, where the header images appear and where other images are larger as well.

What follows is a celebration of the beauty, grace, and elegance of the remarkable animals that we call snakes. Thirty-four species inhabit the Middle San Pedro Valley. Here is a sampling of a few that I have had the delight to encounter…

A Sonoran coralsnake, (Micruroides euryxanthus), a highly fossorial, nocturnal, (and therefore seldom-seen) species. The striking aposematic coloration of these beautiful reptiles is a clear warning to many would-be predators. Bites from these small snakes are very rare – and very serious. The venom is primarily neurotoxic; drop-for-drop, it outdoes any other southwestern snake for sheer potency.

Sonoran coralsnakes are small, (rarely over two feet in length) shy, and retiring, preferring to hide their heads when threatened rather than strike defensively.

Gophersnakes, (Pituophis cantenifer), are Arizona’s longest serpent, capable of reaching lengths of over eight feet. These powerful constrictors are experts at preying on rodents. A special scale armors the front of their snout, enabling them to push through soil in rodent tunnels with ease. Gophersnakes play a key role in landscape-scale ecology by controlling rodent populations. This also makes them an ally to ranchers and farmers. Sadly, many are killed by ignorant people who mistake them for rattlesnakes, and many more are intentionally killed by drivers, brutal acts that are a mark of cruel, simple-minded people.

While gophersnakes are common in Arizona, this one is very rare due to the aberrant patterning on the upper parts of its body. The usual dorsal blotches have been replaced by long, striped markings.

Glossy snakes, (Arizona elegans), are quite common in the Middle San Pedro Valley. This species can attain lengths approaching six feet. At a glance, it is not hard to confuse these snakes with gophersnakes.

A Sonoran lyresnake, (Trimorphodon lambda), curled up against the wall of my adobe residence. Lyresnakes are fascinating; their large eyes feature vertically elliptical pupils, whereas most of our other snakes have round pupils. This is a nocturnally active species whose its diet is composed primarily of lizards. Lyresnakes don’t have injectable venom; instead, they secrete venom from glands in the rear of their mouths that is very toxic to lizards – but not to humans.

A typical “pink” coachwhip, (Masticophis flagellum). Coachwhips are often erroneously called “racers” or “red racers” by local residents.

Coahwhips are phenomenal creatures, the true “über predators” of the southwest. Equipped with large eyes capable of exceptional long-distance acuity, coachwhips are the desert’s fastest snakes, and are surely among the fastest in the world. These are extremely alert reptiles that specialize on hunting lizards but will also consume a wide variety of other prey items. Coachwhips occur here in three color phases, with intergrades as well. The pink phase predominates locally.

I spotted this long-nosed snake, (Rhinocheilus lecontei), crawling across the dirt floor of our open shed on a warm, early summer morning. Its vivid colors and patterning are a reminder that snakes can be very beautiful creatures.

Long-nosed snakes occur in southern Arizona in two main color morphs. This is the other one, a completely different mix of colors and patterns compared to the individual above.

A California kingsnake, (Lampropeltis californiae). To me, this is one of the most beautiful snakes in Arizona, combining a chain-like pattern of cream-yellow bands set against a glossy, satin-black background. Kingsnakes are snake specialists, actively hunting many other species including rattlesnakes – kingsnakes are immune to their venoms. In addition to snakes, other foods include small rodents, eggs, and lizards.

A desert kingsnake, (Lampropeltis splendida) This species occurs locally in two primary color phases – the one pictured here is the most common. Some desert kingsnakes exhibit melanistic (all black pigmentation) coloration.

Checkered gartersnakes, (Thamnophis marcianus) prefer habitats near water sources such as streams and ponds, where one of their favorite types of prey can be found most reliably – amphibians. Three species of garter snakes inhabit the San Pedro River Basin.

Rattlesnakes are the victims of more prejudice and brutal cruelty from people than all other American snakes – most often, the prejudice and cruelty arise from deep ignorance. We tend to overlook the comforting fact that rattlesnakes are among the very few toxic snakes on Earth that give us the courtesy of a warning. This western diamond-backed rattlesnake, (Crotalus atrox), is one of several that I see quite often around our buildings. Bites from this potent species are very serious, but also very rare IF one simply pays constant, close attention to where one’s feet and hands are placed when outdoors. We never kill these snakes, (nor any others, for that matter). Most diamondbacks are shy and inoffensive if left alone. Quite abundant in many habitat types, diamondbacks play a very important role in local ecology by helping to control rodent populations.

Of the world’s 36 species of known rattlesnakes, surely the black-tailed rattlesnake, (Crotalus molossus), would win one of the top prizes for sheer beauty. My wife and I spent half and hour watching and photographing this unagressive, beguiling individual. We found it basking, suspended several feet off the ground among tree branches in a walnut – velvet mesquite bosque. This one was large for its kind, close to 48 inches in length.

I had to radically adjust my search image for local rattlesnakes when I uncovered this snake in our shed, an Arizona black rattlesnake, (Crotalus cerberus), curled up beneath an inverted wheelbarrow. Before that moment, my search image had concerned itself only with the grays and dull browns of western diamondbacks; black rattlesnakes were not “known” to inhabit low-elevation places like our valley-floor bosque, situated at 3,100 feet. Since then, I have recorded this species locally several more times.

The Mohave rattlesnake, (Crotalus scutulatus), is the most potent rattlesnake in the entire American west, injecting substantial amounts of strong neurotoxic venom when it bites. This one emerged from under a stack of lumber that I had been working with, furnishing an unforgettable reminder that only fools slip their hands under wood stacked outdoors without looking carefully beforehand.

The most reliable way to visually identify Mohave rattlesnakes is to get a close look at their supraocular scales that lie atop the head between the snake’s eyes. It is difficult to do this safely without a good pair of binoculars with close-focusing ability. Diamondbacks can look quite similar to Mojave rattlesnakes, but their supraocular scales are much smaller and more numerous. Adding to identification difficulties, the two species have been known to hybridize in Cochise County.

Small and inoffensive, ring-necked snakes, (Diadophis punctatus) are common in the San Pedro River Drainage.

When threatened by a predator, ring-necked snakes may flip themselves upside-down, feigning death while revealing their striking, aposematically-colored ventral side.

Eastern patch-nosed snakes, (Salvadora grahamiae) feel like smooth satin when handled. This species is always among the earliest to emerge when the weather begins to warm in the valley, often above ground by mid-March. Note the heavy scale at the proximal end of the snake’s head, armoring for its snout as it digs underground in loose soils.

Upon lifting a pile of old branches and debris one day, I exposed this incredibly tiny snake, a highly fossorial species I had never seen before. My first thought was, “I never knew earthworms lived on our bosque,” until I looked closer and picked it up. Coiled in my palm with room to spare was this amazing western threadsnake, (Rena humilis). Threadsnakes prey on ants, ant eggs, ant larvae, and termites. They are a favorite prey item for Sonoran coralsnakes.

Replace ignorance with knowledge.
Be kind to snakes.

A Celebration of Birds in a Birdwatcher’s Paradise

Few places in the United States can rival the watershed of Arizona’s San Pedro River as one of the nation’s premier birding hotspots. A phenomenal richness of birds has been documented here – well over 450 species. Join  me as I celebrate this gift of life with a sampling of our beautiful, diverse, and fascinating avian fauna…

One of the rarest colors among all the creatures of planet Earth is blue, here brought to brilliant life by a male blue Grosbeak, (Passerina caerulea).

The broad-billed hummingbird, (Cynanthus latirostris), tiny and utterly dazzling, underscores the need for a pair of good binoculars to enable full appreciation – not to mention a heightened sense of wonder – of this jewel-encrusted sprite. Unfortunately, it has been dubbed with one of the dullest and most unimaginative of names.

Hummingbirds are important pollinators of many native plants. Here, a fitting example of coevolution presents itself: the saguaro evolved to raise its flowers high into the desert air as an offering to flying pollinators like bats and hummingbirds. The bats and the birds are able to locate these tall beacons at long distances. The height of the saguaro’s blossoms ensures that its pollinators will remain secure and at ease, out of the reach of a long list of ground-based predators.

Ravens are the most intelligent birds in our country – they possess larger brains relative to their body size than any of our other species. Ravens also have the largest vocabulary of all American birds, they mate for life, and they can live for decades. These black-as-night birds are absolute masters of flight. Magic attends all ravens. This is Mavis, a female Chihuahuan Raven (Corvus cryptoleucus), who has successfully raised many broods here on our property with the help of her mate, Mike.

A fledgling raven spends months with its siblings and parents, exploring and learning about its world. During that crucially important period in their lives, the young birds meet many of their neighbors for the first time. Adult box turtles like this one have little to fear from the fledglings, but neonate turtles are a favorite food.

Cooper’s Hawks, (Accipiter cooperii), are what instill constant wariness and universal fear in most other birds of smaller or equal size. These hawks are specialized, highly skilled bird hunters. Utilizing the combination of a long, rudder-like tail, lightning reflexes, powerful flight musculature, and incredibly sharp eyesight, they are among the world’s most capable avian predators.

The sight of a Crested Caracara, (Caracara plancus) in the Middle San Pedro Valley is a rare treat. Caracaras are classified as members of the Falconidae, the falcon family. The crested caracara is the world’s second largest falcon.

Elegant, gorgeous, and highly social, Gambel’s Quail, (Callipepla gambelii) are common valley residents. The ecology of this species is closely linked with Gila monsters, for quail eggs (and occasionally young chicks) are a major food source for the big lizards.

Greater Roadrunners, (Geococcyx californianus), are a frequent sight here, but seeing them in snow is anything but common, for snow is rare in the valley floor. Their tail feathers display are an eye-catching blend of beautiful iridescent greens and bronze. Roadrunner populations are locally cyclic, but what determines that is something I have yet to learn.

Lark Sparrows, (Chondestes grammacus), are a great example of why no one should be without a pair of binoculars. Seen with the naked eye, they are just another small, drab brown bird. Viewed through binoculars, these sparrows come to life with ornate patterning and rich, saturated colors.

A Loggerhead Shrike, (Lanius ludovicianus) scans for its prey from an elevated perch in a velvet mesquite. “Loggerhead” refers to the shrike’s unusually large head. (The largest non-pelagic turtle in our country also shares this moniker with the shrike: “loggerhead snapping turtle.”) Shrikes sometimes impale their prey on long thorns and even on barbed wire. This beautiful predator has been in sharp decline all across its range for decades. Loggerheads are the only shrike endemic to the United States.

Dressed in vivd red hues, Northern Cardinals, (Cardinalis cardinalis) are a visual standout in any habitat type – that is why cardinals tend to spend much of their time concealed in dense shrubs or other types of thick cover. In the valley, cardinals have a very close association with graythorn (Zizyphus obtusiloba) bushes, where they find safety and peace of mind within the thick maze of very thorny branches that so characterize graythorns.

As humans, we tend to conceptualize and visualize birds either in flight, or as viewed laterally (from the side). I think this posterior view of a northern cardinal may outdo any other viewpoint – what an amazing crest!

Decades ago, Spotted Owls, (Strix occidentalis) ignited a huge controversy when they were added to the endangered species list. Many people lost sight of the fact that it was not just the birds that mattered, for spotted owls were a symbol for what really mattered most: the ecoregion itself – the magnificent coastal rainforests of our westernmost states that have literally been torn to shreds by humanity’s rapacious demand for wood products. Few people know that these owls are also residents of the Sierra Madrean Ecoregion. Sometimes known as “Mexican spotted owls,” this subspecies – Strix occidentalis lucida – reaches the northern tip of its range in the San Pedro Watershed. During a very lucky day, I photographed this individual in the Huachuca Mountains.

There are few more vivid ways to mark the coming of spring to the Middle San Pedro Valley than the arrival of Vermillion Flycatchers, (Pyrocephalus rubinus). These tiny birds light up the fields and bosques in early March – before the mesquite trees leaf out. Adult males are wearing freshly grown feathers in March, plumage so pure and bright that these minuscule flycatchers can be seen with the naked eye at distances approaching 100 yards. Their crowns sport the most radiant part of their plumage, hence the name “Pyrocephalus,” which translates to “flaming head.”

A Celebration of Life in the San Pedro Watershed – Native Mammals

Being  grateful for what we have is a wise way to live. With the advent of this new year, I feel an urge to share a gallery of original photographs that reflect that gratitude. It is a privilege to share habitat with the rich variety of living creatures that so grace this landscape. All of the following images, with only one exception, were taken within the watershed of the San Pedro River. All of the animals were wild and free  when photographed. Meet a few of the 90 species of mammals that live here…

This bobcat (Felis rufus) was sitting quietly near a gopher mound, hunting pocket gophers. Eventuallly, the cat’s patience paid off as it nabbed a gopher that made the mistake of peeking out of its burrow at the wrong time.

Trail cameras tend to render very poor quality images, but they do allow us to see things we otherwise might not, like the fire in this bobcat’s eyes. A highly reflective layer of cells known as the tapetum lucidum enables exceptional nocturnal vision for all felines.

The same trailcam recorded this beautifully colored gray fox – (Urocyon cinereoargenteus) a common predator here, but rarely glimpsed because of its nocturnal habits. Gray foxes are among the very few canids on Earth that can climb trees with ease.

A coati (Nasua narica) exploring an old barn. This one was unconcerned with my presence – these are not shy mammals. Coatis are native constituents of the fauna of the Sierra Madrean Ecoregion. Here, they are close to the northern limits of their range.

When mammals grow front claws to lengths like these, it can mean only one thing – that digging is a prominent part of their lives. Coatis use their flexible, sensitive noses to locate underground food sources (mostly insects, grubs, and pupae), then employ their stout claws to dig out dinner.

When they are not raiding gardens or gnawing on the electrical wires in the engine compartments of vehicles, rock squirrels (Otospermophilus variegatus) play a valuable role in the local ecology. Equally at home in the trees or on the ground, this species digs deep burrows to live in. By virtue of their relatively large diameter, rock squirrel burrows furnish secure underground retreats for a wide diversity of other creatures.

This young Mearn’s kangaroo rat (Dipodomys mearni) had become trapped in our (always empty) swimming pool. This species is abundantly distributed in the valley floor, providing food for many predators and playing a valuable role in the ecology of local native plant communities via seed consumption and seed distribution.

Coyotes (Canis latrans) are amazingly adaptable – they are among the few native mammals whose ranges have expanded considerably since the occupation of this continent by Europeans and other non-native peoples. They are also widely misunderstood and unjustly vilified by many people. Is ignorance bliss? Not in the case of the coyote.

I remember how thrilled I was to see my first javelina (Tayassu tajacu) – now I see them daily roaming through our bosque. This one had just finished taking a drink from the San Pedro River.

It would be a misnomer to apply the word “cute” to an adult javelina, but with respect to their tiny young, the adjective fits like a glove. Mother javelinas are both fearless and fierce when it comes to protecting their young, as all good mothers should be.

Desert cottontails (Sylvilagus audubonii) are quite common in this river valley, but they are not often seen due to their preference for staying in or near dense cover. Unlike precocial jack rabbits, cottontails dig burrows and care for their altricial young.

A Botta’s pocket gopher (Thomomys bottae) takes a quick, furtive look at the world of light. This mammal’s life is spent almost entirely in darkness. A keystone species, its role in our local ecology is of pivotal importance. I devoted an essay to this topic in The Life of the San Pedro River.

Here is what gives nightmares to any animals that think they are safe and secure deep in their burrows. Badgers (Taxidea taxus) are enormously powerful rapid digging machines, specialized to follow rodent burrows deep underground until dinner is served. They leave many holes in their wake as they roam large territories seeking food. Badger holes often plunge below the frost line. Their large holes can fit a wide variety of other animals and are used by numerous other species for shelter or brumation / hibernation dens long after the badgers leave them.

I will follow this post with a series of additional blog posts focused on birds, ophidians, and more in celebration of this new year of 2024.

Rare Autumn Color Transforms the San Pedro’s Forest

For the past three years in a row, I had made a date with the San Pedro River: I would spend my birthday walking the river under the gilded magnificence of tall willows and stately cottonwoods alight with prime autumn color. For the past three years, the autumn colors have failed to shine. “Autumn,” if you can call it that, comes late to this river’s riparian forest. Fall colors do not peak here until the second week of December. The timing does not vary due to temperature or climate, it functions via the most universal and reliable of nature’s temperate region chronometers: the photoperiod. In most years, the trees along the river either suffer a hard freeze before the second week of December, or they get stripped off by strong winds, or both. Freezes can rob the forest of its fall color overnight by turning all of the leaves a withered brown. 

When conditions are just right, chlorophyll fades from the leaves to reveal anthocyanic compounds that transform the forest canopy into a fluttering galaxy of bright yellow leaves. This year brought a reprieve from late November winds and early December freezes – this was one of those special years…so I set out for a walk on my birthday, a serene journey into the river forest. The following images help to tell the story of a rare day on the river.

The  first place I walked to that morning was a hilltop where I saw the lone cottonwoods pictured above, lifting plumes of sunlit gold skyward. As I watched, a great egret came sailing out from behind the trees! Imagine an elegant pair of outstretched wings spanning over four feet, the bird flawless, brilliant snow-white, set against a clear blue sky. My wonderful new binoculars brought this seldom seen creature in close and sharp – what a gift it was to witness the egret! My jaw went slack when a second egret appeared to join the first. The pair then departed northward, winging over the tops of the trees as they followed the river that sheltered and fed them. I envied their freedoms.

A rich blend of plant communities (and thus many habitat types) is underscored by the blaze of autumn color along the river. Here, a dense growth of velvet mesquite and catclaw acacia flank the riparian forest. Highlands are visible in the distance, providing more habitats for wildlife and wild plants that vary according to aspect and elevation.

I left the hilltop, then returned to the riparian forest, where I walked down to a favorite sitting spot by a bend in the stream just below a vertical cutbank. There, a set of cougar tracks was pressed into  the moist sand, made the night prior by an adult male. I sat under a willow to look, to watch, and to take in the morning’s biophony. The forest was quiet, the still air punctuated by a slight rustling of leaves above, the quiet murmur of the river water, and the voices of a few birds. As sunlight warmed the cool air, small clouds of midges began to rise within discreet, sunlit areas above the water. There, the air temperature was most favorable for their airborne gatherings. As the midges danced in the light, a gray flycatcher began sallying back and forth into the insect clouds, garnering breakfast with typically adroit flycatcher movements. Then another bird joined in the feast, flying into the swirling insects to garb morsel after morsel with some amazing acrobatics. It turned out to be a ruby-crowned kinglet! I had no that clue kinglets could – or would – engage in such feeding behavior.

A favorite and long-familiar reach of the San Pedro River in mid-December dress.

Next, I walked down the river until I got near the northern terminus of my trail. The going was easy, the stream shallow in most reaches. I was glad to find no recent signs of trespass cattle anywhere, nor any signs of feral pigs. There was little in the way of animal tracks, as a heavy mantle of recently shed leaves covered most of the ground thoroughly.

A dense carpet of crisp, shed leaves draped the forest floor. This made for noisy walking!

I heard these Gould’s turkeys before I saw them emerge from the forest to slake their thirst at river’s edge.

Gooding’s willows cast long shadows into a beguiling artist’s chiaroscuro of glistening water, dappled light, and autumn leaves.

As I neared the end of my walk, I veered into the forest to avoid some deep water. (For much of the way, I’d been wading.) The wind suddenly arrived, causing a blizzard of shimmering golden leaves to return to the ground that had bore them, an entrancing display of fluttering motion and light as one of nature’s grand cyclic acts of life unfolded all around me.

Truly a stellar birthday!

A Spectacular Neon Sunset, Dawn’s Rainbow, and the Perfect Raven Portrait

Sights like the one above depicting a vivid sunset over the Rincon Mountains are relatively rare here – after all, this is a desert ecosystem, and the first requirement for a memorable sunset is a sky strewn with clouds.

Yesterday evening brought just such a sky, festooned with three distinct layers of clouds – low, mid-altitude, and high altitude clouds.

As our world steadily rotated eastward, away from the setting sun, strong winds began to sculpt bands of high cirrostratus clouds into undulating threads of radiant color.

These clouds are composed entirely of ice crystals capable of diffracting sunlight into its vibrant, full spectra.

A closer look into the constantly changing palette of moving colors.

As the sunset peaked, wisps of clouds more than four miles high tangoed with the wind, wrought into life by a spellbinding blend of motion and neon colors.

The following morning brought another show of beautiful natural light. Photo by Kathleen Waldt.

Mike, (one of our pair of resident Chihuahuan ravens), caught in the warm glow of early morning sunlight, admiring the rainbow arcing over his spacious world of Earth and open sky. Photo by Kathleen Waldt.

A Snake’s Worst Nightmare, Beautiful Autumnal Creatures, and Lightning far too Close for Comfort – Again!

The snake pictured above is a black-tailed rattlesnake, Crotalus molossus. Of the nine species of rattlesnakes inhabiting Cochise County in southeastern Arizona, this one is my favorite. (If you don’t see the image, it is because you are reading this in your email. Click on the blog’s title to be redirected to my blog website for a better, more inclusive experience. Once there, simply scroll down the title page to quickly find this most recent post.) 

If snakes could talk, when asked the question “what is hell?,” they would likely answer “any place where people are.” Many people kill snakes on sight, and others run them over with vehicles – often a brutal, intentional action. If snakes have dreams, surely one of their worst nightmares would involve becoming entangled in certain types of fencing, like chicken wire or plastic mesh. A snake can slip its head through the openings in these kinds of fencing easily. The trouble comes as the reptile moves forward. As the body thickens behind the neck, there comes a point when the snake becomes trapped. Scales on snakes overlap and point backward. The wire or plastic mesh gets caught under the scales, making it impossible for the snake to back out. A long, slow death is the inevitable outcome. I have seen live and dead snakes trapped in fencing more than a few times, especially in chicken wire and in various types of plastic mesh and bird netting. The bottom line is simple: if you care about snakes, don’t use these types of fencing! Find another way.

Late this summer, a neighbor called requesting my help to free this 4-foot Sonoran whipsnake, (Masticophis bilineatus). The snake was badly entangled in some plastic mesh fencing. It took quite some time with a pair of small scissors to free the snake. This feisty whipsnake tried to bite me repeatedly during the delicate procedure.

Sonoran whipsnakes are among the desert’s most beautiful reptiles. They are capable of incredibly fast movements much like their cousins, the coachwhips. Large, capable eyes give this creature excellent long-range vision for hunting its prey and avoiding predators. These snakes are semi-arboreal, often found high in the mesquite trees, where they move with skilled grace in search of lizards and bird nests. This one had skin that felt like fine silk, remarkably smooth to the touch.

October brought this 3-foot Sonoran gopher snake to our residence. I have never seen gopher snakes as richly colored as the individuals I have encountered in this river valley. They are Arizona’s longest ophidians, (reaching lengths exceeding eight feet) and they are always more than welcome here. Few predators are more adept at capturing mice, rats, and pocket gophers, for these animals can do what most other predators cannot – they can crawl down into the rodents’ burrows.

Nowhere else have I seen box turtles as gorgeously marked as our local variety. This is an adult – some of these turtles lose their stripes, fading to a solid brown as they get older, but not this one. The species is Terapene ornata, otherwise known as the ornate box turtle.

Yet another Gila monster visited our property this year. This one was an adult measuring close to 14 inches in length. These lizards are readily identifiable as distinct individuals, for their complex markings are never the same, somewhat like our fingerprints.

The track of an opossum may be a common sight east of the Mississippi, but here it is something special. Most of the opossums in this valley are representatives of a Sierra Madrean subspecies, reaching the northern tip of their range here in SE Arizona. This distinctive footprint, along with others, appeared in the fine dust under my ramada early one morning.

Southern Arizona is among the top places in the nation for frequency of lightning strikes. Summer monsoon storms can be fierce and utterly unforgettable, particularly when they occur after dark. On the first day of September, a bolt slammed to the ground some 55 feet from where I had been seated. The bolt followed this upright support post on an open shed as it made its way downward. The carbonized streak is clearly visible on the post. The electromagnetic pulse from this strike fried our home telephone system.

RAIN GRACES A DESPERATE LANDSCAPE AND A RARE VISIT BY A GILA MONSTER

I am happy to report that the Middle San Pedro Valley has finally received some summer rain! This has been a very dry summer – during July and August, we have received only .63 inches of rain. Most of that has occurred during the past four days. The summer “monsoon” season is what literally defines this ecosystem – enabling much of the rich assemblage of plant and animal species that makes this part of Arizona such a remarkable place.

Despite the extended drought, the velvet mesquite trees in the local bosque have put on a tremendous spurt of foliar growth this year. Additionally, the trees have flowered three times since spring. As I write this, the ground under the trees is plastered with a heavy crop of “beans,” the nutrition-packed seed pods that are one of the cornerstone food sources for our wildlife. How can this happen during such a bone-dry, hot spring and summer? The answer is rooted in last year’s very wet monsoon season. Mesquites have a remarkable ability to move rainwater down their roots, where they store it at depth for later use. That’s right; these trees can move water in both directions in their root systems! The big bean crop owes its genesis to last year’s stored rain water.

Wind plays a pivotal role in the ecology of velvet mesquite trees. When the seed pods are ripe, winds accompanying rain storms can release astounding quantities of pods in very short periods of time. Pods on the ground then become available to all wildlife, not just the species that climb trees. Mesquites depend upon animals to remove the tough outer seed coating by chewing and gnawing on the pods. The seeds of mesquite trees are able to germinate only after the outer husk is removed.

This beautiful bumblebee appeared last week, an uncommon insect in local bosques. The ecology of bumblebees is intimately woven around the activities of small rodents. Local bumblebees make their colonial nests in the abandoned underground nests of mice and kangaroo rats.

Iridescent scales glitter on the back of this Clark’s spiny lizard, at rest in the shade of my ramada on a 108°F. day. Prime habitat for this species are mesquite bosques, where the trees offer an abundance of shade and escape routes from predators. Clark’s spiny lizards can climb trees with the speed and agility of an over-caffeinated squirrel.

Within the sheltered confines of a small depression in the joined trunks of two mesquites is a small rodent’s dining room – in this case, likely an Ord’s kangaroo rat. Note the many chewed fragments of mesquite pods. Kangaroo rats and many species of mice prefer such places to gnaw on their foods.

As of this writing, the raven family is still together as the trio of young birds explore their new world, constantly learning from their devoted parents. That’s papa Mike in the foreground, Mavis in the background, and their rowdy, inquisitive kids in between.

Mavis eyes up one of her favorite foods. Large eggs like this one must be held in the bird’s beak with skill and finesse. She sauntered off with this one, walking some 90 feet into the bsoque, then gently dropped the egg, dug a hole, placed the egg into the hole, then covered it with soil and duff. The spatial cognition and spatial memory of ravens is astounding. Hundreds of food items get stashed in tree crotches or buried for later use – with uncanny ability, the ravens remember where every one of them is hidden.

This morning brought us a seldom-seen spectacular visitor in the form of this Gila monster that was crawling along the foundation of our home.

When viewed dorsally, the reticulated patterns on the backs of Gila monsters really stand out – patterns that are mirrored in the art of many native southwestern cultures and tribes. No two Gila monsters are patterned alike, so photographs can identify specific individuals. This one is an adult, about 14 1/2 inches in length.

An Inferno of a Summer, Huge Arthropods, and Arizona’s Tiniest Mammals

This has been one of the driest and hottest summers I can recall here in the Middle San Pedro River Valley. During “normal” summers, monsoon rains arrive between the middle and the end of June and continue through August and much of September. The two previous monsoon seasons brought us a welcome abundance of rain, but this year has remained very, very dry. Daytime highs for the past six weeks have averaged around 106°F., with more than a few days reaching 110° or higher. This year’s highest temperature registered at a crispy 115°F. on July 17.

Our mesquite bosque remains dry, the understory of dense London rocket plants yellowed and brittle. Usually, by the end of July, this scene should be bursting with vivid green growth in the form of Amaranthus palmeri and many other native plant species.

Despite our xeric summer, velvet mesquite trees in our bosque have produced a nice crop of pods, followed by a second flowering during the past couple of weeks. The trees are drawing on water from last summer’s abundant storms; mesquite has the rare ability to transport water in both directions within its extensive, very deep root system. Water can be transported deep underground and stored for later use.
A fresh splay of velvet mesquite blossoms perfumes the air and reminds us that desert plants have evolved uncanny mechanisms to stay alive and even thrive under dry, difficult conditions.

Mesquite blossoms lead to garlands of bright green pods growing from pendant branches. Mule and whitetailed deer love to feed on low-hanging bunches of these young pods. When ripe, the seed pods turn yellow and fall to the ground. There, they become one of the most crucial and nutritious wildlife foods in the entire ecosystem, eagerly fed upon by a very long list of native animals from mice to coyotes to bears and many more.

Despite the drought, this was a banner year for a widespread local species known as catclaw acacia, Acacia gregii. (See the photos in my previous blog post.) Throughout the valley, these large shrubs/small trees flowered explosively. The scent from their blossoms is intoxicatingly wonderful. Much like mesquite pods, the seed pods of acacias are fed upon by a wide variety of native wildlife.

Dry conditions leave fine coatings of dust on our driveway – an excellent newspaper that I strive to read daily. This summer has revealed tracks of mice, kangaroo rats, gray foxes, coyotes, raccoons, mule and whitetailed deer, a cougar, hooded skunks, quail, doves, and other birds including this trackway of a Chihuahuan raven.

A closer look at the raven’s tracks reveals their relatively large size, distinctively lobed feet, and shallow drag marks made by their posterior claws.

A mystery…last week, I noticed something I had not seen before: dense clumps of small, black native bees forming in certain graythorn (Zizyphus) bushes. I have no idea what is going on here, nor what species these bees are – there are well over 1,200 species of native bees in this ecosystem, representing the richest known bee fauna in the world.
I found this adult giant mesquite bug (Thasus californicus) roaming under my ramada the day before I posted this blog. These are large insects that are true bugs (Hemipterans) as opposed to a type of beetle (Coleopterans).

A lateral view of the mesquite bug reveals the tube-like mouthpart that it uses to feed on plant liquids. The tube is inserted, syringe-like, into the stems of plants. These specialized feeding tubes are a primary characteristic that separates true bugs from beetles.

Prior to maturation, giant mesquite bugs exist in the form of wingless nymphs. The nymphs form colonies that feed on liquids from various species of trees and shrubs. The nymphs go through several instars before finally transforming into adults, all of which exhibit these very bright red colors. The nymphs are protected with self-manufactured noxious chemicals that make them taste bad to predators, hence their aposematic coloration.

Arizona’s smallest mammals are shrews; I found this one – dead but still warm – on the floor of our bosque. This species is known as the desert shrew, Notiosorex crawfordi. Shrews are among the most highly energized, frenetic mammals on Earth. They require remarkable amounts of food – up to nearly half their body weight on a daily basis. They almost never stop moving, constantly on the hunt. I wonder how they have time to dream.

This sight greeted me a few mornings ago, when I walked outside just after dawn to see this giant centipede (Scolopendra heros) clinging to the wall of my adobe building. The broom handle gives a sense of scale. This one was just under seven inches long – and they get bigger than this, up to nine inches in length. Very large specimens measure around an inch in width across their backs, are equipped with formidable pincers, and can move at astounding speeds.

High winds snapped this velvet mesquite trunk at the location of a cavity hollowed out by Gila woodpeckers. I have seen such tree breaks many times, both locally in this southern desert and in the northern Rockies. There is a complex relationship between cavity-making birds and their varied roles in forest ecology that may be more important we know.

A close look at the exposed woodpecker cavity shows the remnants of a successful nesting season. Last month, a pair of ash-throated flycatchers raised a batch of young within the sheltered confines of this tree cavity.

This image should be entitled “HOPE”… a series of empty, dry water buckets under my roofline, hoping and waiting for the summer rains. Why collect rainwater when we have a well, particularly summer rain water? The summer storms often feature stunning amounts of lightning, which allows substantial amounts of elemental nitrogen to be carried from the atmosphere (via rainfall) down to the ground, where it greens the Earth. All gardeners should learn that summer rain water collected after lightning storms works magic on plant growth.

Wading a Desert River in the Magic of June and Nearly Bitten by a Rattlesnake

For the past twenty years or so, I have participated in a coordinated  volunteer project aimed at monitoring the presence of water along the length of the San Pedro River in southeastern Arizona. Organized by The Nature Conservancy, this project provides important data to scientists, land managers, and many others on the health of the river system during the hottest and driest month of the year. The data is collected the old-fashioned way – gathered by teams who experience the river in the best and most intimate manner possible, by walking and wading. Every June, I collect a portion of this data along a rare, perennially-flowing reach of the San Pedro located in the river’s middle valley, often accompanied by friends and neighbors. This year, two wonderful friends who also happen to be great neighbors assisted me in this worthwhile and delightful task.

Since June always brings oven-like temperatures, we began walking around 5:30am along a waterless stretch of the riverbed. Almost immediately, we discovered fresh tracks of an adult black bear and a cougar, etched in dry sand. One and a half miles in, the magic of water appeared. From that point on, the river flowed steadily. Because the brush is often nearly impenetrable along portions of the riverbanks, we waded, a much easier way to travel as long as one can avoid hidden lenses of quicksand. More mammal signs and tracks appeared; Coue’s whitetail deer, mule deer, javelina, coyote, bobcat, raccoon, coati, skunks, cottontail rabbits, mice and rock squirrels. Familiar bird songs spilled from the forest; summer tanagers and kingbirds, ash-throated flycatchers and song sparrows, southwestern willow flycatchers and black phoebes, grey hawks, tyrannulets, northern cardinals, Lucy’s and yellow warblers, and more.

The river in June is a different world from the surrounding vastness of desert habitat types – humid, verdant with profuse life, cool and shaded. It feels and smells almost subtropical. So much life graces the river and its forests in June that these annual walks have become my favorite time to explore and experience the beauty of the San Pedro.

Wading this desert river in the heat of June is magical. The cottonwood-willow forest stands tall and green, casting shade and coolness enabled by millions of fluttering leaves. The forest’s understory is verdant with lush growth. Eight-foot tall burr reed (genus Scirpus) plants crowd the riverbanks. Aquatic patches of speedwell (genus Veronica) glitter with multitudes of blue-purple blossoms. Tall willows form a vivid green arch overhanging the river. Birds sing from the depths of the forest, many butterflies, bees, and wasps drink from water’s edge, and scores of lowland leopard frogs leap at one’s every step. Below the surface, schools of long-finned dace are darting like shafts of animated light through the clear water. The continued presence of native frogs and fish are strong, positive indicators of the health of this aquatic ecosystem.

Among the most remarkable predators in the insect world, dragonflies are a common sight along the summer river. Some twenty-two years ago, an entomologist discovered nearly one dozen species of dragonflies and damsel flies that were new to science along this part of the river.

We waded for a couple of miles, feeling the warm, shallow waters of the river filling our shoes, until the waterway started to broaden and slowly deepen. I suspected a beaver dam was ahead. We climbed up on shore, then began to weave our way through a dense tangle of tamarisk and seep willow. Before long, we could see the beaver pond clearly, the water deeper and deeper, then the dam, plugging the river with a meter-tall, thirty-foot span of branches, twigs, tree limbs, rocks, and mud. I was elated to see that this reach of the river had beaver activity once again. The ecological and hydrologic benefits of beavers to this river – and many other waterways – are legion. I devoted an essay to this important topic in my book, The Life of the San Pedro River.

A cool, deep pond extends upstream of the beaver dam. Such dams hold more water within the river system, helping to recharge the aquifers that feed the river and its forest. The positive benefits of beaver ponds to plant life and many wildlife species could fill a book. Note the turbidity of the impounded water, a sign that the beaver(s) had been active there the night prior.

A moment of reflection seated atop the beaver dam before I was almost envenomated by a rattlesnake. Photo by Tom Talbott.

       My companions and I slithered down the steep riverbank to begin wading the final stretch below the dam. We had taken just a few steps when one of my friends suddenly threw his arm around me and pulled me out of harm’s way. A 3-foot western diamondback rattlesnake, coiled too close for comfort along the edge of the river channel, erupted in a frenzy of rattling. The forward third of the reptile’s body was off the ground and formed into an s-curve as the snake’s glistening black tongue waved slowly, curled backwards over its snout. Fully cocked, primed, and quite willing to strike. My fresh shoe print was about 14 inches from the rattlesnake. Had I not been yanked so suddenly by my alert friend, this snake would have probably tagged me. I have never come so close, despite encountering hundreds of diamondbacks here over the course of the last two decades. This experience underscores a crucial rule that I try to teach to everyone that I take into the wilds here – you should watch where every footstep is headed during the warmer months in southern Arizona! Sometimes, that is easier said than done.

This is the snake that I stepped far too close to, coiled, rattling, and very ready to strike defensively. Note the recent injury on its back, something that may have amplified its angry mood. If I weighed in at less than a pound or two, and a huge, towering, 200-pound bipedal mammal threatened to step on me, I’d be in a biting mood too.