Lightning Strikes 53 Feet From Me, a Deluge of Rain, Fireflies, Floods, and Images from a Wonderful Monsoon Season

The lightning bolt slammed into the ground with thousands of times the force and speed of a sledgehammer blow on an anvil. It struck so close to me that I heard no thunder, only the unmistakably loud, monstrously powerful  “snap” that is characteristic of a bolt that hits far too near to its observer. I had been sitting on my bed reading when it happened; I knew instantly what had occurred, for this was not the first time that lightning had struck so close to me that no thunder could be heard. Many years as a guide in the wilderness mountains of Montana had brought me into near-contact with lightning along high ridges at timber line more than a few times. It is one of nature’s most lethal forces when it strikes living creatures, but the other side of lightning is that it is one of the world’s most quintessentially important life-giving phenomena. For the full story, see pages 204-205 in my book, The Life of the San Pedro River. The next morning, I found the place where the bolt had impacted. A tape measure revealed that the lightning had struck 53 feet away. The electromagnetic pulse from that bolt fried our telephone system and our computer router.

The storms of this year’s monsoon season in southern Arizona have been wonderful – thus far, our rain gauge has registered 9.56 inches of rain since mid-June, resulting in a grand resurgence of life all across this hot and formerly dry landscape.

On the morning of August 20, a serious storm pounded the ground with so much rain that the area around our buildings became an unbroken sheet of water. I could hear toads starting to call  from our overflowing bird pond. Before long, dozens of spadefoot toads came out of their underground lairs to join in the party, all of them hopping and swimming through the flooded landscape in beelines toward the pond. This was a critical time for the amphibians, for in a normal year, they get only one or two brief chances to breed. It was also a rare sight, for I have never seen such activity in the daytime…but this was a doozy of a storm.

Mavis – the female half of the raven pair that we share habitat with – takes shelter from the storm under the roof of our shed.

As the rain subsided, I stepped outside. I heard the familiar roar of one of our local washes that had become engorged with flood water. A short walk of a quarter mile took me to a place where I could look down from the edge of a vertical cutbank at the flowing wash…

The view from the cutbank after 2.6 inches of rain from a single storm swelled Hot Springs Wash with roiling floodwaters. Only a single channel is visible in this image. The waters braided across the broad wash floor in an ever-changing – and growing – number of channels. Powerful floods are characteristic of desert washes with large drainage areas (this wash drains an area of about 100 square miles) and steep slopes in their headwater areas.

Next, I walked over to see what was going on in the little pond – there were eight pairs of Couch’s spadefoot toads in amplexus! A couple days later, after thousands of toad eggs hatched, our pond was teeming with wriggling throngs of tiny tadpoles.

Couch’s spadefoot toads mating in our pond. Each female usually lays hundreds of tiny eggs during such couplings, as the male releases sperm into the water.

After the mating frenzy, myriad spadefoot eggs clung to every blade of grass afloat in the water.

Later in the day, Kathleen and I walked down the road to have a look at where the big wash crosses the road. The sound of the flood grew loud as we approached a point where we could see the flow, over 300 feet in width. The dirt road – the only road that serves the entire valley – had become impassable once again. In the midst of the turbulent flow, where the waters ran deepest, trees were being tossed around like toys, ripped from their root-bound moorings as they sped downslope toward the San Pedro River. Hundreds of tons of sediment, gravel, and rocks were being transported toward the floor of the valley in a rip-roaring tumult of rain water.

A view of the flood as it obliterated the roadway where it crosses the usually dry bed of Hot Springs Wash. During the twenty summers that I have seen this wash respond to rainfall events, only twice have I witnessed it running larger than this.

As we were watching the floodwaters, I climbed to a higher vantage point, where I discovered this beautiful Sonoran gopher snake. The snake allowed me to gently approach within a foot or so. This was a fine specimen, over 5 1/2 feet in length.

A few hours later, the sun had melted down into the nether regions of the western horizon. My wife and I walked outside around 11:00pm to listen to the night sounds. After turning off our flashlights, we witnessed something that is seldom seen here – fireflies!! Few of Earth’s creatures are capable of instilling such an immediate and compelling sense of awe and wonder as fireflies are. They were emitting distinctive, paired flashes of remarkably bright green light – in so doing, they identified themselves down to the species level. We were seeing southwestern synchronous fireflies, Photinus knulli.

A couple of days after the big storm, I walked down to the San Pedro River. Many areas within the river’s drainage had received substantial rains, bringing the river to life. Here, el Río is surging along with a flow roughly 180 feet in breadth and over six feet in depth.

Downstream, a group of turkey vultures was roosting in a pair of dead cottonwood trees. Dead trees are an essential and important component of all forested areas on Earth. All too often, humans fail to recognize this aspect of our planet’s ecology. Our culture – embedded in the ecologically dangerous Abrahamic concept of land use – (the land is here to produce our milk and honey, for human use) – tends to see dead trees as “going to waste.” “Salvage logging” of our national forests after wildfires is an exemplification this anthropocentric view of our living world.

The rainy season brings twilight flights of thousands of buprestid beetles just above the canopy of our local mesquite bosques. Here, a very rare sight unfolds as a female Polycesta aruentis everts her ovipositor to lay her delicate eggs deep within the sheltering crack of a mesquite stump, where they will be out of reach of the sun’s touch. Her larvae will hatch to bore their way through the wood, leaving tunnels in their wake that greatly facilitate the entry of fungi and other agents of decomposition. Thus, insects like this play a critically important role in forest ecology.

A half-grown (about four inches in length) Sonoran desert toad enjoys our bird pond after a rain. These amphibians grow to prodigious sizes. If I am not mistaken, they are the heaviest toads native to North America.

Living in remote parts of the desert southwest demands some important learned behaviors. Only fools step outside without looking first. This diamondback had just finished crawling across my entry steps when I took this photo. Snakes of all kinds are always welcome on our property – but continuous caution when one ventures outdoors is an imperative part of living here.

Living Jewels that Seek Fire and Eat Wood

Among the most important components that power the machinery of forest life are insects – beetles in particular play crucial ecological roles in forests.  One of the largest beetle families is the Buprestidae, represented by nearly 16,000 species. These creatures are known as “jewel beetles” due to their family’s spectacular array of iridescent colors and patterns. The insect pictured above is one dazzling example, native to the coniferous forests of the Rocky Mountains.

One of the world’s largest jewel beetles is Euchroma gigantea, native to Amazonia. These insects can measure over two inches in length. This is a mounted specimen from Brazil, part of the author’s collection.

In most living organisms, iridescence is enabled by pigmentation. Jewel beetles are different – their iridescence is structural in origin; microscopic texturing on the surfaces of their exoskeletons selectively reflects specific frequencies of light while absorbing others.

Most jewel beetles lay their eggs on dead or dying trees. Once the eggs hatch, the beetle larvae go to work, chewing their way through the wood. They leave a maze of tunnels in their wake. Some species of jewel beetles will lay their eggs only on freshly burned trees. These specialized insects are known as pyrophiles (literally, “fire loving”). Forest fires create a nearly instant Shagri-la for them.

The larvae (or grub) of a jewel beetle found inside a section of velvet mesquite wood. These larvae are often known as flathead borers due to the shape of their heads. The tunnels that such larvae create in dead wood are of great importance to forest ecology.

Pyrophilous jewel beetles have evolved specialized extra-large wing muscles to enable long distance flights to wildfire sites. These beetles have a way of finding burned trees that borders on the miraculous…

One of the buprestid beetles native to velvet mesquite bosques in southeastern Arizona. Note the heavyset, thickened body of this insect, a specialized morphology that allows room for large, powerful flight musculature.

When they fly, these beetles hold their bodies at an angle, in order to orient their underside to the direction of travel.  Minuscule texturing on the ventral side of the insect’s thorax functions mechanically in response to incredibly faint traces of infrared radiation (heat). Infrared radiation causes a pressure differential to occur in the thorax texturing. This fires neurons, sending a message to the beetle’s brain. The message says “fly in this direction and you will find a smorgasbord of freshly killed trees to provide food for your offspring.” What is even more amazing is that these insects can detect the heat given off by fires at distances up to fifty miles!  (research conducted by Dr. H.P. Bustami and associates at the University of Bonn [in Germany] brought this astounding facet of jewel beetle biology to light.)

A living jewel adorned with iridescent gold flecks and shimmering purple-sapphire elytra, this native buprestid inhabits local mesquite bosque habitats.

This relationship between forests, fire, and beetles has been going on for countless millennia. However, people often take a dim view of beetle larvae drilling tunnels in trees, claiming that this ruins otherwise “valuable” wood. Such anthropocentric views are myopic, for they exclude the needs of all other living things and turn a blind eye toward the ecology of forests. Jewel beetles benefit forests as agents of decomposition; the tunnels that their larvae bore in dead trees provide important open pathways for other insects and for the introduction of fungal spores. The tunnels facilitate the exchange of gasses in the wood and furnish the perfect moist, insulated, dark environ for fungi to take hold. Fungi are crucially important to living trees, to the health of the soil, and for their leading role in the recycling of nutrients via the decomposition of dead trees and other organic detritus. No forest on Earth can exist without fungi and decomposition.

This maze of tunnels was bored by jewel beetle grubs in a dead limb on a living velvet mesquite tree. Read the text above to discover why these tunnels are so beneficial to forest ecology.

This is a limb that was cut from the same tree as the one in the preceding image. However, this limb was cut when it was alive. Note the scarcity of holes and tunnels. Most jewel beetles lay their eggs only on dead wood, but there are a few exceptions to this rule.

Here in the desert southwest, jewel beetles are usually easy to find almost any place where trees are present. I have also found them rather often in upland desert habitats – areas that are essentially treeless. Buprestid beetles fly into these places seeking nectar and pollen meals from the wildflowers and flowering shrubs that grow there. Thus, they provide another important ecological function by acting as pollinators.