Lightning Strikes 53 Feet From Me, a Deluge of Rain, Fireflies, Floods, and Images from a Wonderful Monsoon Season

The lightning bolt slammed into the ground with thousands of times the force and speed of a sledgehammer blow on an anvil. It struck so close to me that I heard no thunder, only the unmistakably loud, monstrously powerful  “snap” that is characteristic of a bolt that hits far too near to its observer. I had been sitting on my bed reading when it happened; I knew instantly what had occurred, for this was not the first time that lightning had struck so close to me that no thunder could be heard. Many years as a guide in the wilderness mountains of Montana had brought me into near-contact with lightning along high ridges at timber line more than a few times. It is one of nature’s most lethal forces when it strikes living creatures, but the other side of lightning is that it is one of the world’s most quintessentially important life-giving phenomena. For the full story, see pages 204-205 in my book, The Life of the San Pedro River. The next morning, I found the place where the bolt had impacted. A tape measure revealed that the lightning had struck 53 feet away. The electromagnetic pulse from that bolt fried our telephone system and our computer router.

The storms of this year’s monsoon season in southern Arizona have been wonderful – thus far, our rain gauge has registered 9.56 inches of rain since mid-June, resulting in a grand resurgence of life all across this hot and formerly dry landscape.

On the morning of August 20, a serious storm pounded the ground with so much rain that the area around our buildings became an unbroken sheet of water. I could hear toads starting to call  from our overflowing bird pond. Before long, dozens of spadefoot toads came out of their underground lairs to join in the party, all of them hopping and swimming through the flooded landscape in beelines toward the pond. This was a critical time for the amphibians, for in a normal year, they get only one or two brief chances to breed. It was also a rare sight, for I have never seen such activity in the daytime…but this was a doozy of a storm.

Mavis – the female half of the raven pair that we share habitat with – takes shelter from the storm under the roof of our shed.

As the rain subsided, I stepped outside. I heard the familiar roar of one of our local washes that had become engorged with flood water. A short walk of a quarter mile took me to a place where I could look down from the edge of a vertical cutbank at the flowing wash…

The view from the cutbank after 2.6 inches of rain from a single storm swelled Hot Springs Wash with roiling floodwaters. Only a single channel is visible in this image. The waters braided across the broad wash floor in an ever-changing – and growing – number of channels. Powerful floods are characteristic of desert washes with large drainage areas (this wash drains an area of about 100 square miles) and steep slopes in their headwater areas.

Next, I walked over to see what was going on in the little pond – there were eight pairs of Couch’s spadefoot toads in amplexus! A couple days later, after thousands of toad eggs hatched, our pond was teeming with wriggling throngs of tiny tadpoles.

Couch’s spadefoot toads mating in our pond. Each female usually lays hundreds of tiny eggs during such couplings, as the male releases sperm into the water.

After the mating frenzy, myriad spadefoot eggs clung to every blade of grass afloat in the water.

Later in the day, Kathleen and I walked down the road to have a look at where the big wash crosses the road. The sound of the flood grew loud as we approached a point where we could see the flow, over 300 feet in width. The dirt road – the only road that serves the entire valley – had become impassable once again. In the midst of the turbulent flow, where the waters ran deepest, trees were being tossed around like toys, ripped from their root-bound moorings as they sped downslope toward the San Pedro River. Hundreds of tons of sediment, gravel, and rocks were being transported toward the floor of the valley in a rip-roaring tumult of rain water.

A view of the flood as it obliterated the roadway where it crosses the usually dry bed of Hot Springs Wash. During the twenty summers that I have seen this wash respond to rainfall events, only twice have I witnessed it running larger than this.

As we were watching the floodwaters, I climbed to a higher vantage point, where I discovered this beautiful Sonoran gopher snake. The snake allowed me to gently approach within a foot or so. This was a fine specimen, over 5 1/2 feet in length.

A few hours later, the sun had melted down into the nether regions of the western horizon. My wife and I walked outside around 11:00pm to listen to the night sounds. After turning off our flashlights, we witnessed something that is seldom seen here – fireflies!! Few of Earth’s creatures are capable of instilling such an immediate and compelling sense of awe and wonder as fireflies are. They were emitting distinctive, paired flashes of remarkably bright green light – in so doing, they identified themselves down to the species level. We were seeing southwestern synchronous fireflies, Photinus knulli.

A couple of days after the big storm, I walked down to the San Pedro River. Many areas within the river’s drainage had received substantial rains, bringing the river to life. Here, el Río is surging along with a flow roughly 180 feet in breadth and over six feet in depth.

Downstream, a group of turkey vultures was roosting in a pair of dead cottonwood trees. Dead trees are an essential and important component of all forested areas on Earth. All too often, humans fail to recognize this aspect of our planet’s ecology. Our culture – embedded in the ecologically dangerous Abrahamic concept of land use – (the land is here to produce our milk and honey, for human use) – tends to see dead trees as “going to waste.” “Salvage logging” of our national forests after wildfires is an exemplification this anthropocentric view of our living world.

The rainy season brings twilight flights of thousands of buprestid beetles just above the canopy of our local mesquite bosques. Here, a very rare sight unfolds as a female Polycesta aruentis everts her ovipositor to lay her delicate eggs deep within the sheltering crack of a mesquite stump, where they will be out of reach of the sun’s touch. Her larvae will hatch to bore their way through the wood, leaving tunnels in their wake that greatly facilitate the entry of fungi and other agents of decomposition. Thus, insects like this play a critically important role in forest ecology.

A half-grown (about four inches in length) Sonoran desert toad enjoys our bird pond after a rain. These amphibians grow to prodigious sizes. If I am not mistaken, they are the heaviest toads native to North America.

Living in remote parts of the desert southwest demands some important learned behaviors. Only fools step outside without looking first. This diamondback had just finished crawling across my entry steps when I took this photo. Snakes of all kinds are always welcome on our property – but continuous caution when one ventures outdoors is an imperative part of living here.

A Rare Pied-billed Raven, Giant Mites, an Insect Eruption, and a Tarantula for Dinner!

The four young Chihuahuan ravens that were hatched this spring in a  nearby mesquite tree have been exploring every nook and cranny of their expanding world. One of the four youngsters is a rare bird indeed, for it has a pied bill. (“Pied” simply refers to an object or creature that has two or more differing colors.) Both common and Chihuahuan ravens have black bills as adults. It will be interesting to see if this particular raven retains the pied colors on its bill as it matures into adulthood. The bills of its three siblings look quite different; they are well on their way to becoming fully black.

The young raven sporting a very unusual pied bill.

In comparison to any of its siblings, the pied-billed bird really stands out.

On the third day of July, this desperately parched, drought-stricken landscape received the first measurable rainfall in many months. Our rain gauge registered a total of 1.47 inches from two storms that arrived in the afternoon and late evening. Summer “monsoon” rains are an exceptionally important aspect of southeastern Arizona’s ecology. The summer rains spark a surge of new plant growth, enable many insects and amphibians to reproduce, feed the trees, recharge critically important aquifers, and much more. Life blossoms on this land after the gift of rain.

The “snowbirds” (part-time residents) who run out of Arizona every spring and scamper back in the winter never have a chance to experience the glory and magic of the famed summer monsoon season. So much happens in Arizona’s natural world during summer. Many creatures that are difficult or nearly impossible to see during the other seasons make special appearances during the monsoon. Among these creatures are red velvet mites.

Red velvet mites remain hidden underground during most of the year, where they seek refuge in silk-lined tunnels. Only after a summer rain do these giants appear on the surface of the ground.

The word “mite” should immediately conjure images of very, very tiny creatures. Most mites measure under a millimeter in length. Velvet mites (classified in the family Trombidiidae) are among the world’s largest mites. Some species approach one half inch in length; the one in the photograph is about a quarter of an inch long. They are nearly impossible to miss, as their brilliant red color contrasts sharply with their surroundings. Mites are very important constituents of soil fauna and thereby play essential roles in many terrestrial ecosystems. Some mites even have a place in human medicine. Oils extracted from one species of velvet mite native to India have been traditionally used to treat victims of paralysis.

photo caption: An emergence of thousands of winged termites from a gap between two cement slabs on the morning of July 4th, just after our first summer rain.

Every summer, on the first morning following the first substantial rainfall, termites erupt in synchrony by the millions from their subterranean dwellings in a united, landscape-wide orgy of reproductive zeal. Winged males and new, winged queens flood from their underground homes to take wing, mate, and disperse across the land. This event is one of spectacular importance, for termites are among the most essential and beneficial creatures in this entire desert ecosystem. They are primary decomposers, able to break down cellulose and thereby recycle plant materials into the soil. Without them, the health of this living landscape would be in serious trouble.

A closer look reveals a mass of gossamer-winged termites – new queens and males – known as alates. They arise from these masses in great numbers like curtains of smoke, dispersing, mating, and flying off to start new colonies. After mating, the insects lose their wings, structures that evolved for the sole purpose of dispersal and genetic interchange.

Monsoon rains also bring many other creatures out of hiding. Tarantulas are common here, but they are not easy to find except during the summer, when rains stimulate them to leave their burrows in order to forage and find a mate. These huge spiders are formidable, armed with a pair of long, sharply hooked fangs and stinging hairs on their abdomens. It is hard to imagine eating a spider that is large enough to fill the palm of one’s hand, but there are a few brave creatures here who regard tarantulas as dinner items…

Sonoran desert toads are common valley residents here along the San Pedro River. They are the largest toads native to the United States, reaching lengths of nearly eight inches. This rare image was photographed by a friend as the toad was in the process of ingesting a daunting meal, an adult tarantula.

There is more to the above  photograph than meets the eye. Frogs and toads possess remarkable viscoelastic tongues that fire from their mouths with great speed to catch their prey. Their tongues have a unique saliva that is phenomenally sticky; so sticky that some frogs in the genus Ceratophrys can haul in prey weighing more than themselves. This brings forth a question: how does a frog or toad get the prey item off of its sticky tongue once it is inside the amphibian’s mouth, so that it can be swallowed?

Alexis C. Noel, a Georgia Tech Ph.D. student specializing in biomechanics, published a scientific paper in 2017 documenting her research on the remarkable attributes of amphibian tongues and their saliva. What she discovered is physically, chemically, and biologically amazing…

Frog and toad saliva is a non-Newtonian fluid; the viscosity of the fluid can change based on how it is moved. When a frog’s tongue extends to impact a prey item, the saliva changes to a much more watery consistency, so that it can very rapidly coat the prey item and adhere to every part of the prey. As the impact slows to a stop and the tongue retracts into the mouth, the saliva returns to its normal thick, goopy consistency. This all happens in fractions of a second with incredible speed.

I recall watching many frogs and toads consume food items, mostly insects. Once the tongue returns inside the mouth with the prey item, the frog or toad retracts its eyeballs into its oral cavity, pushing the prey against the tongue. The push helps to release the prey from the tongue so it can be swallowed.