Last week, two friends and I embarked on a short hike up a roadless drainage in an effort to scout the area for a group hike that I will be leading in a few days. We were also hoping to explore an amazing slot canyon that one of my friends had discovered more than a quarter century ago.
I refuse to publicly divulge the location of the canyon for several reasons. First, there is the matter of deep respect for the many living things that call the canyon and the surrounding area home – a rich community of undisturbed native plants, insects, snakes, birds, mammals, etc. Secondly, when wild places are publicized, more and more people inevitably go there. Trails get carved into fragile desert soil. Litter appears…candy wrappers, used toilet paper, beer cans, broken bottles and spent shell casings from those who carry weapons. Initials get carved into once pristine stone walls and the garish rudeness of graffiti mars the sanctity of the place. Sensitive wildlife species leave or disappear altogether. All I will disclose is that this area is somewhere within the 4,720 square-mile San Pedro River Drainage in southeastern Arizona.
Our walk led up a wash (desert speak for a streambed that remains dry during most of the year) under cloud-flecked skies on a warm spring morning. Less than a mile in, we came across the signature tracks of what has become the region’s apex predator (next to humans). Just two centuries ago, that role would have taken a back seat to the indigenous people, jaguars, wolves, and grizzlies that thrived here prior to the arrival of large numbers of Euro-Americans.
This track appeared in soft sand, made by an adult cougar that had walked by the night prior. The cat was a female – mingled with its tracks were the tracks of a single cub that had become large enough to be thinking about going out on its own before long. Mountain lions are primarily crepuscular and nocturnal hunters. They are incredibly adept at hiding quietly – even in scant cover. They utilize large home ranges. The combination of these factors adds up to a furred ghost that very few people ever get to glimpse in the wild.
March is a month that spurs changes in southern Arizona’s avian world. As we walked, turkey vultures soared overhead, recent arrivals from their wintering grounds. Mockingbirds and cactus wrens were singing with newfound spring zeal. Two other recently arrived migratory species made themselves known- one by voice, a gray hawk – and another by sight, a large, lone, black-colored bird flying over a distant ridgetop. Its silhouette formed a distinctive, familiar shape. The combination of broad wings and a wide, short tail nearly touching the trailing edges of the wing feathers strongly suggested a common black hawk. As the raptor curved its flight path, banking its body, the tail suddenly flashed a broad white band, cinching the identification. The hawk had just appeared here from migration; had we been in the same area only days sooner, it was likely that we would never had seen it.
Not long after the black hawk, we changed direction, exiting the wash to ascend a gentle slope leading toward my friend’s slot canyon. Two of us followed as he led the way to the base of some sandstone cliffs…
From a distance, these large, vertical rock outcroppings looked enticing, but the entrance to the canyon was not yet visible.
As our viewpoints changed, the entrance to the slot was revealed. Just inside the canyon’s mouth was this western white-throated woodrat palace. The rodent’s nest (it was currently occupied) can be seen at the bottom of the rock wall. Woodrats literally evolved to prefer steep rock faces as integral parts of their habitat. They are highly adept climbers. Note the whitish stains on the rock wall a few feet above the nest, and the cavity in the rock face farther above with similar stains issuing from its base. The cavity is a frequently used hiding place for the rats, who mark their nocturnal trailways with frequent squirts of pungent urine. Everyone knows about stalactites and stalagmites, but did you know that they can be made from urine? This is a closeup view of the white-stained area a few feet above the rat nest depicted in the photo above.
Centuries of frequent use by woodrats depositing countless dribbbles of pee has caused actual stalactites to form. These are smaller than the stalactites often seen in caves (formed from water-borne mineral precipitates) but they are stalactites nonetheless. A series of funnel-shaped walls towers above the person seated at the end of this short but fascinating canyon.
The view from inside looking straight up at a cerulean slice of sky. The person aiming her camera gives a sense of scale to an otherworldly realm. Multiple funnel-like chimneys form the back of the canyon, where sediment-laden water has carved repetitive shapes in the sandstone, inching its way back through time. These cone-shaped circular funnels are narrow at the top, then widen progressively as they descend to the bottom. This has me mystified. Natural water funnels the world over form with wide mouths at their tops that narrow as the funnel goes down. The shapes in this photograph depict inverted funnels. Even when I try to understand this via methods that include something like the Coriolis effect, they do not make full sense to me. There are numerous singular rock funnels like these in this region, but few places feature multiple funnel shapes like this canyon does. Our hike revealed another rare part of this wild landscape: a saguaro with multiple cristate heads. It will be interesting to watch this cactus as its deformed meristems grow larger in coming years.
Behold the common poorwill, the only bird on Earth known to hibernate! My first acquaintance with this fascinating creature happened in the late ‘80s. At the time, I was living in an old log cabin nestled into the stony folds of Montana’s Rocky Mountain Front. There, I heard an unmistakable signature call lilting out of dusk-wrapped foothills on warm summer nights, a plaintive two-note call that to some, sounds like “poor – will.”
Summer after summer, I heard their voices – sometimes I would glimpse one in flight. Much about poorwills remained a mystery to me, until one fateful evening. As I was driving up a dirt road, a small bird abruptly rose up in front of my pickup truck. The resulting collision was unavoidable. I stopped immediately, dismayed to find an inanimate lump of feathers caught in the grill. Gently, I extricated the bird and gazed at its limp form in wonder; cupped in one hand, its warm feathers felt gossamer-soft. My attention was immediately drawn to its head, quite large relative to the rest of the body. Two huge, liquid eyes characterized the bird’s visage. What looked like a ridiculously tiny beak barely poked out from a covering of feathers. The area around the beak (and the rest of the bird’s hidden mouth) was festooned with a fringe of curved, jet black, semi-rigid bristles.
Now it gets even weirder. I had read up on these birds, so I knew that they were grouped in a strange family known by several names: frogmouths, nightjars, or goatsuckers. (Yes, goatsuckers, but that is another story altogether.) Curious, (as any naturalist should be) I pried the beak apart. My jaw fell in synchrony with the yawning beak, for the beak did not merely open; the bird’s head nearly split in two! The hidden edges of the beak extended far back to form an absolute cave of a mouth, a great, gaping maw that could make any shark jealous. Why such a mega-mouth, and what was with those bizarre bristles?
Poorwills are highly specialized to feed on flying insects in low-light conditions. Having a wide gullet for a mouth makes it much easier to catch insects on the wing. Their heads are unusually large because plenty of room is needed to house the mouth and a pair of very large eye orbits. Big eyes gather more light, handy for spotting prey in the dark.
Here at the interface of the Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts, habitat like this is well suited for poorwills. A scattering of low shrubs, cacti, and plenty of open ground in between provides these amazing birds with unobstructed views and open flight paths to help them catch flying insects.
Some ornithologists speculate that the stiff bristles form a sort of tactile net around the mouth, effectively enlarging the bird’s open mouth. This increases a poorwill’s chances of success when chasing its evasive flying food. During the heat of summer, these desert-dwelling birds reveal another advantage enabled by their gigantic oral cavities. As they roost during hot days, poorwills open their mouths while fluttering the muscles in their throats, cooling themselves in a manner similar to a panting dog. The efficiency of such a cooling method is substantially amplified due to the large surface area of the bird’s mouth.
A close look at a poorwill’s head reveals the long rictal bristles that fringe their mouths.
So what about poorwills and hibernation? Here, in the Sonoran and Chihuahuan Deserts, poorwills crawl into rock crevices where they go into a state of hibernation or extended torpor (these terms remain somewhat ambiguous) for months during the winter. Their respiratory rate and heartbeat drops substantially, while their body temperature plummets to nearly 40° F.! An astute scientist is credited with “discovering” that poorwills hibernate as he conducted research on them in 1948. However, indigenous peoples knew this long before 1948. For example, the Hopi Indian word for poorwill is (roughly) hölchoko, translated as “the sleeping one.” Thus, much like Columbus, the 1948 discovery simply revealed knowledge to a different culture, knowledge that was already known to another. (With respect to Christopher Columbus, it is impossible to “discover” a place where people already live. A combination of cultural condescension and arrogance can imprint our history books with less than the truth.)
There is much more about poorwills that makes them such captivating, beguiling birds. Their camouflage is utterly incredible. Poorwills roost on the ground where they literally merge with their surroundings. The cryptic patterning of their plumage renders them extremely difficult to spot. On more than one occasion, I have nearly stepped on them before they revealed themselves through movement. The genus name for poorwills is Phalaenoptilus, ancient Greek for “moth plumage.” (Our birds are a very unique species, for no other bird on the planet shares their genus epithet.) The scientific name Phalaenoptilus is fitting in two ways, for many moths are extremely well camouflaged, and moths make up a large part of a poorwill’s diet.
Don’t let the red eyes fool you! This is an artifact of the light projected by a camera flash. When seen in natural light, the eyes of poorwills are very deep brown or black in color. Read the following paragraph for more details.
Like other members of their family, poorwills possess a special layer of cells at the back of their huge eyes known as the tapetum lucidum, rarely found in other birds. These cells allow them to see much better in low-light conditions. As for the glowing red eye in the photographs, that results from light reflected from the choroid, a thin layer of connective tissue surrounding the outer periphery of the eye. The choroid is nourished by a rich supply of capillary blood vessels, hence the red color. (The “red eye effect” sometimes seen in photographs of people is caused by similar choroid reflectivity.)
Weird enough? Not quite. On the Montana evening when I held the unfortunate poorwill in my hand, I had missed something: the bird’s feet. Poorwills possess pectinated claws (one per foot) with comb-like, serrated ridges that are used to preen plumage and to rearrange the rictal bristles. There is also the fact that these birds do not build nests – they simply lay their whitish, non-camouflaged eggs on the open ground. How they manage to keep their species alive via such seemingly risky egg-laying habits may seem enigmatic, but it works, for there are poorwills year after year. Here in the uplands and mesquite bosques of the San Pedro River Valley, their lonely calls are an intrinsic part of the desert’s twilight world.
Finally, a note on the poorwill images: they were photographed recently here in Cochise County, AZ, then generously supplied by a friend for use in this blog. Unless otherwise noted, all other photographs posted on this site are original copyrighted images by the author.
