The promise of coming vaccinations, a new president, and the start of a new year have me full of hope… a state of mind that had faded considerably during 2020, a year marked by tragedy, social division, societal unrest, and a steadily worsening global pandemic.
Here in the Middle San Pedro Valley, the season of winter is at hand, although the use of a term like “winter” in a place like this is a stretch of the word. The coldest temperature I have ever experienced here was only 8°F., and snow rarely falls in the valley floor. The image above was taken on a winter morning when a rare blanket of fog had smothered the riverbottom forest with its cool, moist embrace. Fog is almost as rare as snow here. When fog does occur, it is a very transient affair, for desert fog most often dissipates into invisibility very quickly as the day warms.
A few years ago, five inches of fresh snow fell overnight, gracing our bosque with a mantle of gleaming, sparkling white. I could not resist taking an early morning walk in order to read the very best of nature’s newspapers, for the goings on of every bird and mammal were written plainly in the snow. I encountered fresh tracks of various songbirds, quail, coyotes, a raccoon, mule deer, javelina, mice, cottontails, jackrabbits, and more. Following a set of roadrunner tracks (they are quite distinctive) I came across a sight I had never seen before: a roadrunner perched in a snow-covered mesquite tree.
Nature has forever been a source of inspiration for artists. There are scenes along the San Pedro River that could captivate any artist’s mind. Last month, an unforgettable gift arrived in our mail, an original painting crafted by none other than my brother, Rick. He and I had spent some time hiking in the riverbottom woodlands one fine spring day, when the river was alive with color and light. We stopped for a break at one of my favorite spots, a place that left its mark in my brother’s memory. Rick captured the essence of that place beautifully in this painting. What a gift!
Winter brings many changes to the activities of our local wildlife. Mule deer move into the mesquite bosques to feed and find shelter. Last year, a magnificent buck lived here, in the company of many does. On a late December afternoon, he stepped out into the light, his neck characteristically swollen in the midst of rut, muscles rippling beneath a sleek coat of winter fur, polished antlers gleaming.
During these stressful times when so many lives are being lost due to the pandemic, it is reassuring and soul-warming to witness death’s opposite: new life coming into the world. A few days ago, I looked out my window to see a herd of javelina, some of them less than 20 feet distant, heading for our bird-feeding area. At this time of year, this group of nearly 20 javelinas visits our place every day and also during the night – seeing them was no surprise, were it not for the newcomers. Several of the adult females had tiny young in tow, varying in age from one or two days to about a week.
When javelina are very young, they often remain nearly hidden beneath their mother’s bellies. They are so tiny that it is easy to miss them as a herd wanders by. I have never pictured adult javelinas as cute or endearing, but a mere glance at one of their stubby-legged babies can quickly reshape one’s views. Those little buggers are, in a word or two, downright cute. They can become otherwise as adults, fouling bird watering dishes, forcing any attempt at gardening in this valley to include stout fencing, and eating much of the bird seed that we scatter for our avian friends. On one occasion, our dog was nearly killed when it charged directly at a full grown javelina. In a split second, the dog was howling in pain as it returned at top speed with a life-threatening gash. Javelina are powerful and deceptively quick. They are well armed with a set of formidable, self-sharpening tusks. The poor little dog simply did not know any better. I did not reach for a rifle after the event occurred. The javelina was simply defending itself; in my mind, it had as much right to be on our land as we do. “Our” land is a place shared with other life. Enough said.
A year ago, another visitor appeared on a cool winter morning, an animal in serious distress. A hooded skunk had been lured by curiosity to the edge of an empty pool on our property, where it slid down into the bottom, only to find itself suddenly trapped. The vertical walls of that small pool are 5 1/2 feet high. Skunks are not built to be high-jumpers or cliff scalers. Normally, I keep an escape ramp positioned in the pool; a long 2×6 board. I had removed it the day prior when I had cleaned some debris out of the pool, but for whatever reason, I had not replaced it afterward. As soon as I discovered the trapped skunk, I replaced the ramp, sliding it down into the pool gently so as not to put the animal into defense mode. It did not take long for the skunk to walk up the ramp, out of the pool’s clutches.
Once free, the skunk began to amble about, seemingly unruffled by its prior confinement. It was searching for food, and hardly paid me or my wife any mind as it stood less than ten feet from us. I have encountered other hooded skunks in the valley before…every meeting with these creatures had left me feeling that they were utterly inoffensive and little concerned with my presence. Some neighbors reach for a shotgun when skunks come near their dwellings. Doing so shows a distinct lack of respect for other life and a lack of knowledge when it comes to coexisting with certain wildlife. Much like rattlesnakes, skunks are shy and inoffensive, unless they feel threatened. I know that if I were as small as a snake or a skunk, I would want some potent defensive measures. The rules are simple: maintain distance between oneself and such creatures and leave them alone. Maintaining distance assures one’s self protection. Leaving the animals alone and undisturbed shows respect.
Skunks bring special distinction to this part of the nation, for their kind are represented by four species here: striped, hooded, hognose, and spotted. Five species of skunks inhabit the United States. Only in a small part of southern Texas, southern New Mexico, and southern Arizonado the ranges of four of the five species overlap.
For the past three months, hardly a drop of rain has fallen here in the Middle San Pedro Valley. This is, after all, a desert region, or nearly so – deserts are defined as areas that receive less than ten inches of precipitation per year. Here, we get a tad more than that.
When the skies turned darker and darker shades of gray a few days ago, I was overjoyed. The land – and its life – has been under duress in southeastern Arizona. The past summer “monsoon” season yielded very little rain. So, when it finally began to rain earnestly on, of all days, my birthday, it felt like an exceptionally wonderful gift. As I stepped outside at dawn that morning, the air bore the rich, humid smell of rain and earth and wet leaves. I drew in big lungfuls, savoring the feel, the coolness, the dampness. For most Americans, rain is no big deal, a common part of life. Here, it is always something to be reverently grateful for.
The ground had changed color in two ways; it had turned darker from the thorough soaking, and had also turned green, carpeted with millions of minuscule velvet mesquite leaves that had been unleashed from the trees by the pelting raindrops. The cyclic path of nutrients from soil to trees and back to the soil lay exposed at my feet, exemplified and accelerated by the rain.
A few hours after dawn, a group of mule deer appeared. They are part of a small herd that has taken up residence in the surrounding mesquite bosque for the past several years. We always welcome their company and never consider them as our “guests,” for they and their kind have been here long before us or our forebears. If anything, we are honored to be guests in their home.
I thought I knew something about rattlesnakes before I moved to Arizona. I had spent decades in Montana, where I had interacted countless times with the single species that lives in that state, Crotalus viridis, known as the prairie rattlesnake. The signs that these snakes left of their presence on the land were usually limited to shed skins, skeletal fragments, or scats. I rarely saw their tracks for the simple reason that the prairies that I roamed in were completely covered with grasses and other plants.
Here in southern Arizona, a different situation presents itself, for there are plenty of open areas in the desert where tracks appear readily and often. When I first arrived here, I thought that snake tracks were snake tracks and not much more – until I discovered that rattlesnakes often leave very distinctive trackways. Unlike most other snakes, rattlesnakes crawl in a distinctive manner, known as caterpillar motion. Their bodies remain very straight (rather than sinuously curved) when they travel across the landscape. If a rattlesnake is in a big hurry, it will leave “S”-shaped tracks, curving and sinuous like other snakes. But these vipers are rarely in that much of a hurry, so it is far more common to find their straight trackways, a hallmark of their kind.
When rattlesnakes want to stop and rest, they invariably curl themselves into tight, circular shapes. If they have rested on a sandy or dusty substrate, they will leave behind another very distinctive rattlesnake trademark, a circular crater often dug one or more centimeters deep into the ground. No other Arizona snakes that I know of assume this distinctive at-rest posture. Rattlesnakes do the great majority of their hunting in such a stationary, circular posture, where they wait, motionless, for prey to come by. Thus, these snakes are referred to as “ambush predators.”
Why did such behavior evolve in these reptiles? Ambush predators rely on concealment. Most animals, including people, immediately recognize the unmistakable serpentine form of a snake. By assuming a non-serpentine look, rattlesnakes can hide from both their prey and their predators more effectively. I have encountered many diamondbacks and other rattlesnake species, and I can say with conviction that when these creatures are at rest in their usual circular posture, they can be extremely difficult to spot. That is one reason why I usually wear heavy boots and snake gaiters when I am hiking during the warm months. A little prevention can go a long way. Some of the rattlesnake species in southeastern Arizona are exceptionally potent. The average cost of treatment for snakebite is now over $75,000!
This will be the first installment of “Reading Land” on this blog. More will come in the future. The art and science of reading a landscape and its life is at the very heart of what a naturalist does. Learning to read the tracks and other signs that creatures inscribe into the places they inhabit can reveal a great deal of information that may not be gleaned in any other way. “Reading sign” is instinctive with me after a lifetime of study in the outdoors. Read on to discover how animal signs can instill a sense of fascination and wonder in those who learn to notice – and interpret – them.
On a hot, midsummer day not long ago, I walked over to our shed; a simple, no-frills, three-sided building with a dirt floor that all manner of wildlife love to visit. The fine-grained, dry soil renders tracks with plenty of detail. As I walked in, a new set of tracks presented themselves, tracks made by a creature unique to this part of the world, a creature that is very rarely seen in the wild. A Gila monster had investigated the shed, leaving some fascinating tracks. Unlike other lizards in southeastern Arizona, this one has dimpled feet, so identifying its tracks is straightforward as long as the substrate will reveal fine detail. The lizard’s tracks reminded me immediately of porcupines, for they are among the few mammals that also have golf-ball-like dimples on the soles of their feet. I believe the porcupine’s dimples are an adaptation for climbing, and could serve Gila monsters in a similar way. I once thought that these big, bulky lizards were 100% terrestrial, but after living with them for many years, I have learned that it is not uncommon for them to climb up into trees. Bird eggs are highly sought after by Gila monsters; herpetologists state that they have a close association with quail…ground-nesting birds that provide roaming Gila monsters with a rich source of food via their eggs. Why not search the trees for the eggs of other birds?
Finding tracks of a rarely seen animal is exciting! I would have had no idea the lizard was around were it nor for those distinctive tracks. With respect to certain animals, reading their sign has taught me more about them than anything else. Wolverines, for example, roamed the Montana Rockies where I grew up. I have hiked more than 17,000 miles in occupied wolverine habitat in the wildest parts of Montana, but I have only seen a wild wolverine once. They are rare. I learned a lot about them, however, by following their trackways for long distances, particularly during the winter, when snow transformed the landscape into an open newspaper.
Here along the San Pedro River, interesting animal signs are often written into the face of the land. One of this region’s other unique animals is the coati. These social omnivores wander the river bottoms in groups of up to thirty or more individuals, foraging for food.
Along a dry reach of the river, I discovered some long claw marks etched into the sand banks, along with some holes that furred paws had been digging into. The width of the claw marks, coupled with the place where I found them, and the animal’s investigation of many of the adjacent holes pointed strongly to the work of a coati. These raccoon relatives dig for a living, using a highly developed sense of smell to locate grubs, insect pupae, and other foods hidden underground. I find their tracks and their signs far more often than I see them.
It has been quite a while since I crafted a new post for this blog. During the past month, my life had been turned upside down with growing trepidation over the presidential election. I was not in a frame of mind conducive to writing. Now that the election is over, I feel a huge sense of relief and renewed hope. This was an election not only for the people, but one that will benefit wildlife and wild places as well.
I walked a perennial reach of the San Pedro River recently. There was a new beaver dam, just a tiny one that was still under construction. Turkey, javelina, bobcat, deer, coyote, opossum, raccoon, and skunk tracks were visible in the mud along the stream’s edges. I was intrigued to find a set of feline tracks that suggested ocelot or jaguarundi, for they were certainly not made by a bobcat and were just as surely not left by a cougar, even a very young one.
October has finally brought some relief from the heat that so characterized this summer…109 consecutive, record-setting days of temperatures cresting at 100°F. or higher. The nights have cooled off and crisp air now graces our mornings. Our local woodlands have quieted considerably with the departure of many migratory birds, but there have been some amazing avian happenings here this month. A very rare event happened not long after the sun had set a few weeks ago. My wife, Kathleen, and I stepped outside to listen to the nocturnal sounds coming from the mesquite forest that surrounds our home.
We heard it almost at once, a mysterious, alien-sounding voice emanating from midway up in the trees, only a few dozen yards distant. It was certainly an owl, but not a species that we had ever heard here before. On many a night, we have listened to the calls of great horned, western screech, barn, and elf owls in this woodland, but this was something new, something distinctly different. It suggested a screech owl, but both of us readily agreed that it was not “right.”
I had a growing hunch, so we went back indoors where we consulted a very useful website (xeno-canto.org), one that offers a multitude of audio files for most bird species across the globe. The first species that we chose to listen to was a bird whose range barely extends into the United States, a bird that inhabits oak and conifer habitats high on mountain slopes in extreme southeastern Arizona…
As soon as we heard the recordings, we realized we had a whiskered screech owl hidden in the darkness of the tall mesquites only yards from our home! This was an owl that should not be here, for we live far from the high mountain slopes in the floor of a low-elevation valley. I believe that a major wildfire event from this past summer may provide the answer to this enigma. Less than 20 miles distant, the Bighorn Fire torched nearly all of the mid-to high elevation habitats off the face of an entire mountain range, the Santa Catalinas. Countless birds were driven off of those mountains, subsequently appearing in nearby places where they would ordinarily not be expected. For example, my friend Woody Hume, a very capable naturalist, told me that he had numbers of western bluebirds appearing at his place of residence not long after the fire. That is a species one does not expect to see during summer in the valley floor. Other such unusual species have been reported here this year. I would not be surprised if the owl that galvanized our attention had been living high in the Catalinas and wound up here, temporarily, as it looked for a new place to live.
October and November brings new happenings in the insect world of southeastern Arizona. It is common to find adult preying mantises at this time of year. It is impressive to see one of these three-inch, bright green insects in flight. The individual pictured is an introduced species that has become widespread and firmly established in southern Arizona and other parts of our country.
Rarely does one have an opportunity to photograph intimate behavior between wild birds, especially those as wary as ravens. Preening one’s mate is a common occurrence among manny species of birds, but catching it on film is not. Behavior like this underscores the very close bonds that form between highly intelligent birds such as this raven pair, mated for life. My wife, Kathleen, captured this moment between Mike and Mavis, the two Chihuahuan Ravens that have befriended us over the course of many years.
Early this morning I walked over to a small, dry pool that is a part of our property to have a look inside. Keeping the pool filled in such a dry part of the world as southeastern Arizona is, to us, an extravagant use of precious water, so it stays dry. The trouble is, such pools are traps for wildlife, hence my daily looks to see what might have fallen in. This morning, a young bullsnake was there. I jumped in, caught the snake, and later released it nearby. The proper local name for this creature is “gopher snake,” (Pituophis cantenifer), but due to my Montana roots, I still use the term “bullsnake” for snakes within the genus Pituophis. They are excellent rodent controllers and a boon to all rural Arizonans. Vehicles and farm equipment are targets for mice, rats, and other rodents that can cause severe damage by chewing electrical wires or constructing flammable nests in engine compartments.
My daily inspections of the dry pool have paid off for many animals. Among the rescued species have been other bullsnakes, spadefoot toads, a lowland leopard frog, a Sonoran coral snake, night snakes, glossy snakes, a coachwhip, many lizards, various mice, kangaroo rats, and more. The pool has vertical walls five feet tall, so once such animals fall in, they have no way out. I keep a wooden ramp in the pool, which some animals can use for escape, but many others need help to get out.
Yesterday, as my friend Gilbert Urias and I were driving down a two-track road near the San Pedro River, I put on the brakes to avoid killing a snake that was stretched out in the roadway. It turned out to be a beautiful eastern patch-nosed snake, a small species that is common here in the valley floor. When snakes crawl onto the compacted surface of a roadway, they are often enticed by the heat of such surfaces to stop crawling and bask. Basking snakes often go into a sort of sleep, so they frequently get run over by vehicles as they lay motionless and unaware, soaking up the warmth. I prodded this one gently four times before it came back to life and zoomed to safety, off of the road. Thanks to Gilbert for these nice photographs.
More detailed information on the frequent problems that reptiles must deal with when crossing roads can be found on pages 122 – 124 of my book, The Life of the San Pedro River.
What a day and what a week it has been here along the San Pedro River! I just finished freeing a live diamondback from a horrible tangle of plastic bird netting that a friend had put up to keep birds out of his garden. The netting, which resembles a plasticized version of chicken wire, works very well to keep out birds. Its downside is that it also traps snakes. Rattlesnakes are particularly vulnerable to such entrapment because their heads and necks are so much narrower than their midsections…the snakes slip through with their heads, but get caught as they try to squeeze their heavy bodies through. Snakes die slow, lingering deaths when trapped in this fashion. My wife Kathleen held the snake’s neck with tongs as I used a small pair of scissors to cut the tightly wrapped material from its body. True kindness extends beyond our human counterparts to all life, including toxic snakes.
Last week, one of our local rattlesnakes curled up at the edge of our bird pond and proceeded to wait for dinner. Many birds visit the pond daily. This was not the first time I have seen rattlesnakes hunting like this one, waiting at the edge of a water source for a feathered meal. An hour after I spotted the snake, I returned just in time to see a bird’s tail disappearing down its maw. I love watching birds and I welcome the songbirds that come to drink and bathe here, but if a snake decides it wants one for dinner, I will not interfere.
A few mornings prior, a pipevine swallowtail flew through our ramada to land in a nearby velvet mesquite. Only a scant few species of large butterflies that inhabit our nation are colored blue. This one is my favorite, for they are iridescent, gorgeous insects that have a very specialized relationship with a certain plant that grows here. I wrote an essay about that in my new book, The Life of the San Pedro River, starting on page 155.
New birds have kept appearing here during the past week as the autumn migration continues. Kathleen spotted – and quickly identified – a female painted bunting that visited us briefly for a single morning. We had never recorded that species here before. Female painted buntings are among our drabbest songbirds, with very few distinctive markings on their bodies…the males, however, are one of our most striking avian species, sporting a combination of bright blue, brilliant red, and iridescent green. Here in southeastern Arizona, painted buntings are at the very fringe of their natural range, thus they are seen quite rarely.
9/13/2020 The past week has brought us many fascinating sights and sounds here in our southeastern Arizona landscape. One of my neighbors discovered a very young ornate box turtle on his property just a few days ago. For almost two decades, I have been seeing ornate box turtles in this valley, but something soon became puzzling about them.
In all my time here, I have yet to see a single individual that is not of adult size. No hatchlings, no young, no pint-sized box turtles. I have thought for some time that they have been having trouble reproducing successfully in this area, so these images are nice to see!
A giant mesquite bug (Thasus neocalifornicus) appeared on our screen door. This actually is a true bug, a Hemipteran. The growth stages of this large insect involve several iterations as bright red social nymphs. Only in their final stage of their development do these insects become solitary and grow wings that enable flight.
This has been a stellar week for bird sightings. Many migrant species are passing through, or arriving to spend the winter. Among the new arrivals here the past week have been calliope, rufous, Allen’s, broad-tailed, and Anna’s hummingbirds, Nashville, black-throated gray, Townsend’s, Virginia’s, and Wilson’s warblers, lazuli, varied, and indigo buntings, Brewer’s, clay-colored, vesper, chipping, and savannah sparrows, a lark bunting, and more. This morning, as always, our resident pair of ravens, Mike and Mavis, came to visit, along with a female Cooper’s hawk that spent many minutes bathing in one of our bird watering dishes.
Cooper’s hawks are exceptionally agile, quick, alert predators that fly with more than enough finesse to catch songbirds on the wing in dense cover. When small birds go to sleep for the night, Cooper’s hawks must color their nightmares!
Our days have been very hazy this week, the sunsets a surreal deep, dusky orange, even the moon has glazed over with smoky orange hues. For Arizonans, the smoke-filled skies are a daily reminder of the horrors that are transpiring in neighboring California as the worst fire season in history wreaks utter havoc across the state. My heart goes out to all Californians, for I know what it is like to suddenly leave home not knowing if it will be there upon our return. Huge wildfires and evacuations were a part of our lives more than a few times when we lived in Montana. May the people of California stay out of harm’s way, and may the rains come!
9/3/20 An amazing morning! Two desert tortoises! Around 8:30am, Gilbert came driving up our driveway to tell me that a tortoise was crawling down the Cascabel Road. I followed him back down our driveway on foot; when I got to the road, I could immediately see a large tortoise about 80 feet to the east. Gilbert told me that the tortoise had been walking right down the road, not crossing it. That is a very dangerous habit for such a creature, as there is no shortage of half-wit, high-speed drivers who roar down the road daily at excessive speeds, churning up great clouds of dust and killing plenty of creatures that cannot get out of the way in time.
The tortoise was an adult, 11-12 inches in length, the second largest one I had ever seen. I gently picked it up and placed it off of the road, pointing it toward the safety of Charlie Thomas’s bosque.
Amazing. In all the yards we have lived here, we have never had a sighting of a desert tortoise on our land. I walked back home, then sat down with Kath under the ramada to watch birds. Incredibly, some ten minutes later I swept my gaze across the woodland to the north, and there, not 50 feet away, was a second adult tortoise!! This one was 9-10 inches in length. We photographed it at a distance so as to minimize disturbing the animal. I watched as it walked northward, disappearing onto Elna’s land as it crossed under the fence line.
These tortoises have a very different manner of walking than the ornate box turtles we have been seeing every day here of late. Box turtles sort of shuffle along, dragging their plastrons on the ground. Desert tortoises raise themselves high off of the ground as they travel, extending their powerful legs so that their plastrons are elevated; the adult that we watched heading north held its plastron a good 3 inches above the ground as it walked.